Sinar F2, tripod and head

[Wanisun]

Hello,

I'm still very new in large format photography. I'd like to start using a Sinar F2 (4x5). And I just figure out that I don't have the right screw (3/8). At the moment, I have a trusty Manfrotto 190 and the X-PRO-Ball-Head (MHXPRO-BHQ2). So, my questions are:

- This tripod seems good enough, right?
- What about the head?
- What's the cheapest and trusted solution to start using the F2?

Thank you for your help

[Vaidotas]

It souds like you are set.
Make some shots and show to us.
F2 is relatively lightweight monorail camera.
But keep in mind that with your tripod and ballhead center of weight will be relatively high and more prone to vibration, especially if your 190 is alluminium variety.
You can skip ballhead setting up camera straight on the tripod gaining more stability.

[Wanisun]

Thank you Vaidotas! But the ballhead is interesting to use. Can I purchase a quick release plate with the right screw? Will it be strong enough for the Sinar F2? Any brand to look for?

[Drew Wiley]

Ditto. A ball head is going to be counterproductive. I call em wobble-bobble heads. The Sinar rail clamp alone is ample unless you intend to shoot straight down. The rest is easily done via leg adjustments only.

Those Manfrotto 190's doesn't look serious either, more on the flimsy side. But try it before investing in anything pricier. In any case, avoid using a center column - more vibration risk. The nice thing about a monorail design is that you can easily adjust the linear center of balance anywhere along the rail.

If all you have is a 1/4-20 thread option on your tripod, you can simply get a stubby little 3/8 adapter for it.

I have decades of Sinar F experience in just about every kind of weather and rugged terrain you can think of. They are an excellent field option.

[Mark Sampson]

There is an adapter bushing that converts the 3/8" tripod socket to the more common 1/4" size. This will allow you to use any tripod.
The F2 is flexible enough that a ball head is unnecessary. The undoubted best head for any Sinar is their own pan-tilt head... but they are no longer made and often cost more than a Sinar camera when found on the used market. I used an F2 (a fine camera) on the job for many years but used various tripods with their own heads. It's not critical as long as the tripod and head (or not) are sturdy enough, so you have many choices.
Best of luck! Keep us posted!

[Vaughan]

A ball head is going to be counterproductive. I call em wobble-bobble heads.

Choose a ball head with a separate adjustment for minimum ball friction, and a panoramic (rotating) top plate. The panning top plate allows the camera to be rotated for composition without the level changing.

In my experience the cheapest, best value-for-money large format head solution is a bowl levelling adaptor with a panning qr plate on top. It allows ±15 degrees adjustment which is probably enough for most landscape and architecture situations.

[Drew Wiley]

No need for any of that, Vaughan. Just redundant extra weight. The rail clamp rotates by itself. And it allows sideways tilts by itself. The neck of a ball head would become the weakest link in the system. I would agree, however, that one of these new "half-ball" devices, which sits in a scooped out tripod platform top, is one of the best inventions so far. Only certain tripods are designed for them from the get-go. I have one of those specific tripods, but don't personally need the half-ball accessory. I do all my adjustments legs-only style. That's the only way early surveyors knew how to do it; and they had far tighter demands than photographers. I learned it from my father and his old 1930's brass transit and maple tripod. He started out as a surveyor on the Grand Coulee Dam project, before becoming a supervisor and inspector on other Federal dam projects. Self-leveling theodolites and survey lasers came much later.

I don't know how likely it is that a Sinar F2 will be used in a panning project with stitching involved, when you can work with information-rich 4X5 sheet film to begin with, or use roll film backs up to 6X12 too. Yeah, for a handful of people that might be a hypothetical consideration. But these days, that seems more the domain of 35mm digital camera users instead.

[Vaughan]

I would agree, however, that one of these new "half-ball" devices, which sits in a scooped out tripod platform top, is one of the best inventions so far. Only certain tripods are designed for them from the get-go.

It's been a standard feature of cinema/video tripods for quite a while, and common with many new carbon fibre tripods. They have the flexibility to use either a flat plate or half-bowl adaptor on top.

[Drew Wiley]

My larger CF tripod - the one suitable for the 8x10 camera, or long MF tele work, is one of the bigger Feisol models which accepts the half-bowl. I have modified the top a little differently, but in a manner not canceling out that option too. The point is, it's basically a platform top accepting interchangeable inserts. A platform effect is quite desirable in term of both lateral and fore-aft stability. I bolt the 8X10 directly to it via a 3/8-16 turnbolt from below - an easy conversion. Their half-bowl device uses a similar turn-knob underneath. Those devices are quite affordable too - another temptation.

[B.S.Kumar]

The Sinar Pan-Tilt Head is generally recommended for all Sinar cameras. You will not need to upgrade it even if you choose to move up to an 8x10 P2. I have one listed for sale on this forum.

Kumar