Kodak Dry Plates

[Drew Bedo]

I will be testing at a sea shore lodcation in much the way recomended by Tin-Can. Don't think I can get ten steps on one plate though. I'll try 4 steps; ISOs 12, 25, 50 and 100. Have a spare dark slide marked off in quarters now, and have a glass plate loaded.

Processing will be by Blue Moon. I can't do this stuff at home.

[m_antonellis]

I recently purchased un-opened 100 year old KODAK Dry Plates (4x5). In my darkroom with red safelight, I loaded one plate into the plate-holder of my Graflex 4x5 camera. On a sunny day, I exposed the plate at 1/80th sec, ƒ11, and rated the emulsion at ISO = 10. I tray developed the plate in my darkroom (red safelight) for approximately 4 to 5 minutes. No image was forthcoming, and the emulsion went from the normal light yellow (?) to complete black. I used Rodinal 1:50 for the developer. I'm not sure what to try next or what to change in my method. The KODAK "Extremely Fast" Dry Plate (actual name on the box) is surely orthochromatic, so I've made the assumption that I can handle these under a deep red safelight. Perhaps I should increase my light meter from ISO=10 to ISO=100? Any suggestions are welcome, and let me know if I missed any detail. Thank you, Matt Antonellis (Everett,WA)

[Tin Can]

Forget meters and stops

I use Rodinol 1/100

Waste a plate and give it LIGHT or strobes, strong light

do 6 stops by pulling the DS in steps

dim red safe light and watch it to completion

I recently purchased un-opened 100 year old KODAK Dry Plates (4x5). In my darkroom with red safelight, I loaded one plate into the plate-holder of my Graflex 4x5 camera. On a sunny day, I exposed the plate at 1/80th sec, ƒ11, and rated the emulsion at ISO = 10. I tray developed the plate in my darkroom (red safelight) for approximately 4 to 5 minutes. No image was forthcoming, and the emulsion went from the normal light yellow (?) to complete black. I used Rodinal 1:50 for the developer. I'm not sure what to try next or what to change in my method. The KODAK "Extremely Fast" Dry Plate (actual name on the box) is surely orthochromatic, so I've made the assumption that I can handle these under a deep red safelight. Perhaps I should increase my light meter from ISO=10 to ISO=100? Any suggestions are welcome, and let me know if I missed any detail. Thank you, Matt Antonellis (Everett,WA)

[Tin Can]

HAT 1890 Glass NEg by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr

[m_antonellis]

Thanks! I will surely make that my next assignment.

[m_antonellis]

Thanks! I will surely make that my next assignment.

Forget meters and stops

I use Rodinol 1/100

Waste a plate and give it LIGHT or strobes, strong light

do 6 stops by pulling the DS in steps

dim red safe light and watch it to completion

[Vaughan]

I recently purchased un-opened 100 year old KODAK Dry Plates (4x5). In my darkroom with red safelight...

The box instructs the plates to only be opened only in a photographic dark room, which suggests they are panchromatic. If so, a red safelight cannot be used it will cause exposure. Handle in full darkness.

[Tin Can]

i use very dim red light

and keep it under the sink

but bring it up to do visual inspections