Opinions on some S-K lenses?

[Len Middleton]

Thanks Vaughan,

Need to get more vigilant in my proofreading...

Indeed, as an prior owner of a Technika IV and currently owning a Technika V, "cammed" is indeed what I meant, and like "Technika" in the draft of this sentence, "cammed" is underlined as a miss-spelled word.

[Memento Mori]

Indeed, text is the perfect medium for lost nuance. Autocorrect has provided some amazing sentences.
It's all sorted now and I'm glad to have a fleshed out thread with plenty of pertinent data. Thanks to all of you fine gents

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[Corran]

As an aside, some of your lenses are in standard #0 or #1 shutters and so even if "redundant" can provide a cheap and easy way to swap out a dead shutter, permanently or while the original is shipped off to repair. Just don't forget to swap the aperture scale too. Many lenses sell for less than the cost of a shutter repair.

[Tom Monego]

I am including a photo of a Linhof Technika IV bed. Mine has 2 distance scales , a cam and 2 sets of lens stops. Mine came with a 150 Apo Lanthar and SK Super Angulon f8, both are in Linhof shutters and are excellent lenses. If the cam is not in the camera the cam holder, on the right springs up and gets in the way so I just keep a cam in the camera. Yours doesn't have the cam, what happens to the cam holder? While I use the GG mostly the cams have been useful at times.
I have a 120 Angulon, nice size, it lets the camera fold, I really like the field of view. The lens is not as good as the 2 I recieved with the camera, but it fits my vision. The 121 SA would be great but I couldn't fold it up in the cam.
Is your 75 on a recessed board? My 90's board is and it really helps, otherwise the lens would be difficult to focus.
The 150 Symmar is a nice lens.
The 135 Xenar is probably the weakest lens you have, it would be OK just not a huge amount of coverage.

[Memento Mori]

Thank you for all the data! I do have a recessed board, although it's loose. I'll check and see if it fits the 75.

I use the gg exclusively so lack of cams doesn't sting.
Also, for focusing when swapping lenses I just wind the focusing wheels to roughly the middle of travel, then move the lens on the rail until the image is in rough focus, lock it down and fine focus with focus wheels. I ignore distance markings, infinity stops etc. Maybe I'm being ignorant but I can't see how they matter. Maybe someone will explain why my method needs improvement
I'm always happy to learn and keep my ego on a short chain.

I have some great lenses that I'll now have to get boards for as they're all in Graflex boards. I will do that though as I've discovered the glory that are movements recently.

Edit: also, I have noticed the cam tab and it’s propensity to flip up. It doesn’t seem to get in the way?

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[Dan Fromm]

I ignore distance markings, infinity stops etc. Maybe I'm being ignorant but I can't see how they matter.

I can't speak for your Linhof, but pulling my Graphics' front standard up against the bed stops guarantees that the standard is perpendicular to the optical axis, i.e., eliminates unintentional swings. This works for the one lens for which the bed stops are set up. I use a small fixture to square the front standard up for other focal lengths.

[Vaughan]

Also, for focusing when swapping lenses I just wind the focusing wheels to roughly the middle of travel, then move the lens on the rail until the image is in rough focus, lock it down and fine focus with focus wheels.

With wide lenses it's possible (inevitable when short enough) that the front bed or extension rails appear in the bottom of the image. To prevent this, position the front standard so it's almost right on focus when the bed and extension is as short as possible. A few millimetres adjustment is ok but any more and those rail will make a cameo appearance, particularly when the back orientation is tall.