lupex users - prefered paper developer?

[Chester McCheeserton]

Someone suggested neutol warmtone but that seems both hard to find and slightly toxic...I am printing in a bathroom that gets regular use....

Have people used lupex successfully with adox neutol eco? What is the best current version of selectol soft - that ideally is not powder or toxic?

I don't think I want to use amidol in my bathroom...currently for enlarging I use Moersch blue developer for ilford warmtone but my hunch is that since lupex is already blue/cool that I would find that combo too blue and that I should use a slightly warm developer.

Thanks for any advice in advance

[Duolab123]

I use Bromophen for everything. I used to use Dektol spiked with a little Selectol Soft. Back in the 80's when I was using Azo, I used Dektol. First I would try what you have. Toners are going to have a bigger impact on Lupex. MHOFWIW YMMV.

[Michael R]

Someone suggested neutol warmtone but that seems both hard to find and slightly toxic...I am printing in a bathroom that gets regular use....

Have people used lupex successfully with adox eco neutol eco? What is the best current version of selectol soft - that ideally is not powder or toxic?

I don't think I want to use amidol in my bathroom...currently for enlarging I use Moersch blue developer for ilford warmtone but my hunch is that since lupex is already blue/cool that I would find that combo too blue and that I should use a slightly warm developer.

Thanks for any advice in advance

I don’t think you will find Lupex to be an inherently blue/cool paper. I suggest trying basically any general purpose/neutral developer first. If on the other hand you prefer a cooler tone you might consider the Moersch SE-3 “cold” developer which is less cold/blue than the SE-6 you are currently using. I’d skip the amidol.

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

I have limited experience with Lupex (only about 50 sheets so far) but found that Ansco 130 worked well with it, and produced a relatively neutral tone.

[Chester McCheeserton]

Thank you, these are all useful suggestions.

[Sal Santamaura]

I don’t think you will find Lupex to be an inherently blue/cool paper...

The only developer I ever used with Lupex was ADOX's own MCC Developer. Results were remarkably neutral without toning. Unfortunately, It's currently out of stock at both Freestyle and FOTOIMPEX.

...you might consider the Moersch SE-3 “cold” developer which is less cold/blue than the SE-6 you are currently using...

While that one is still in stock at FOTOIMPEX, Freestyle doesn't carry it. More importantly, it no longer appears on the Moersch Web site. I'm not sure if it'll be available going forward.

[Michael R]

Sal,

Thanks for correcting regarding SE3. I should have checked that first (it’s been years since I tried that developer).

[revdoc]

Someone suggested neutol warmtone but that seems both hard to find and slightly toxic...I am printing in a bathroom that gets regular use....

Just on the toxicity of Neutol WA, it seems to be all down to hydroquinone, which is present in almost every print developer. (The only other component listed in the MSDS is tetrasodium EDTA, which is also fairly common.)

I believe the least toxic print developers are ascorbate/phenidone based. To some extent, they can be altered to get warmer tones. E.g., I use E-72, which warms up a lot with additional bromide. I haven't tried it with Lupex, but it might be worth looking into if toxicity is of concern.

[jnantz]

I've never used Lupex or it's father, Lodima but I've used a ton of Azo, their grandfather... Be aware if it is similar to that silver chloride paper, it might have a green tinge to it if developed in Dektol/D72 or even Ansco130. A slight dip in selenium toner will help eradicate it. I never used Amidol or the other developers mentioned, only Ansco 130 and it worked great. Don't forget the light has to be like 300 watts.
Good luck with your printing !
John