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andyedward
7-Dec-2011, 14:56
I realise the limitations of my dslr and am considering moving to LF film (possibly something like a 5 by 7"), but I need some advice. I`ve only shot digital so far, so forgive the naive nature of some of the questions I ask....

My main aim is to enlarge above 20 by 28", but would this be possible with 5 by 7" negatives? I`ve seen images of the De Vere 5108, but don`t know if this will enlarge to the size I need.

Speaking of enlarging, are there any rules of thumb regarding enlarger lens focal lengths and the distance from lens for a particular size of paper? I`d guess the negative size and required print size dictate the focal length and distance from lens to the print.

I don`t mind plenty of trial and error, because I know the final result would be worth the effort

andyedward
7-Dec-2011, 15:16
Yes, it is possible to enlarge to 20x28 from 5x7 negatives. You could go much larger if your enlarging equipment allows. A 5x7 negative requires an enlarging lens in the range of 180mm to 240mm. For example, I have both a 210mm and a 240mm Schneider Componon-S. Both will work for that size film. I, too, have a DeVere 5108 enlarger and it will work just fine for what you are asking. There is a formula for calculating the required lens to baseboard distance based on the variables of film size and focal length lens, but I do not know it off hand. I'm sure other people will offer that equation soon.

Many thanks davisg2370.

polyglot
7-Dec-2011, 15:42
You are where I was a couple years ago. I decided to go via medium format, specifically an RZ67 and am now starting with 4x5.

You can easily (in terms of resolution supported by the film) do that size enlargement from 4x5 or 5x7 and the film availability is hugely broader for 4x5 - just look at the catalogs of B&H, Freestyle, AG Photo, etc. You will need excellent shooting technique to get the necessary camera stability to make use of the film's resolution though.

If you've never done film before, there's a whole bunch of mistakes to learn from before you start with LF, which has yet more ways to go wrong. I would recommend getting a medium format camera and putting 100 rolls through it with your own development and enlarging before trying the sheet film. Regardless of learning to develop film reliably to the standards you want (with the tonal curve and grain you want), learning wet printing is a whole new art with a very long (but not particularly arduous) learning curve - like photographic composition, a print can nearly always be better.

With fine films (Acros, TMX), you can get the enlargements you're looking for from medium format (e.g 6x7, 6x9) but of course you lose all the camera-movement benefits of large format and it would look slightly smoother in large format.

Another possibility if you want the movements straight off but a cheaper way of learning is to buy a rollfilm back for a large format camera. You won't get quite as much resolution as with a dedicated medium or large format system but you do get movements and economy and convenience relative to shooting sheet film.

ROL
7-Dec-2011, 15:56
I do up to 30"X40" here (http://www.rangeoflightphotography.com/pages/a-darkroom-portrait) with 6X7 (120 – MF) and 5X7 (LF). Many of my 120 enlargements are mistaken for LF. The 5X7 FP4+ (also 400 speed films) LF 30X40 show no grain and, more importantly to me, fantastic tonality. They could go much larger if I desired it.

I would not recommend moving directly to LF darkroom work from digital, unless you are already experienced in other smaller (roll film) formats. Theoretically it's do-able, but the techniques, and more importantly the printing skills, can take a long time to master (if ever ;) ). At least you can come here (LFPF) for help.

Jay DeFehr
7-Dec-2011, 16:19
andyedward,

This might be the best time to get into LF, or the worst time. Used equipment (especially dark room) prices have fallen through the floor, but film availability is dwindling, and prices are rising. It's going to take some time, and I don't pretend to know exactly how much, for you to acquire the varied set of skills required to reliably and consistently make large prints from LF negatives. That time could conceivably exceed the availability of film. If you're primarily concerned with the journey, there's no time like the present to get started, but if you're more results oriented, you could be setting yourself up for a very long and disappointing detour. Welcome, and best of luck to you, whatever you decide.

Alan Gales
7-Dec-2011, 16:41
Another option would be using a flat bed photo scanner for most work and if you want anything blown up really big having your 5x7 professionally drum scanned.

Using an enlarger and a darkroom is a lot of fun but there is a learning curve. I used to make 8x10 enlargements from 35mm. I would think that printing 20x28 and larger would be hard to do. Just think about handling that big piece of printing paper without messing it up. ROL knows what he is talking about.

Corran
7-Dec-2011, 19:28
I am a new-comer to LF but more importantly darkroom work. I personally would not jump into a wet darkroom printing that size until you have at least some experience shooting the camera. I would say that at that size you should be scanning your negs and then printing digitally, at least until you can get good negs. And then start with 8x10 and 11x14 enlargements first. No color. Unless you've got money to burn and someone to guide you you'll be throwing away expensive paper like crazy.

ac12
7-Dec-2011, 20:25
I agree, start with small print, and work your way up to the large prints.
Just handing a large wet sheet of paper will be a task to learn and do. Personally I would not use trays for a print that large. I use a drum for 11x14 or larger. Then you get to washing. How do you wash a print that large?

A 20x28 is only a 5x enlargement of a 4x5.
And 4x5 (to me) is a lot easier (and cheaper) format to start with than 5x7.

chassis
8-Dec-2011, 06:52
A suggestion is to look into the possibility of using/joining a community darkroom so you can learn before buying equipment. Most large cities have one. Even some of the smaller cities have rental darkrooms, usually in connection with an arts related organization.

andyedward
8-Dec-2011, 08:03
Many thanks and much appreciation to everyone who has responded to my query.

I had wondered if getting into film via LF would be a step too far for a film novice, and this seems to be the consensus from the replies above. I guess I`d be trying to walk before I can crawl.
My dslr is a full frame nikon, so a cheap nikon FE would probably be a good starting point.

The benefits of LF still tempt me though! The amazing, non-digital image quality, the ability to tilt and shift with great lenses. It seems ironic that whilst mainstream society has left film for dead, the image quality from LF film is as good, if not better than, any digital system.

The reason why I got into photography was to capture as beautiful a shot as I could, print large, and proudly display it in my living room! It`ll take me a while longer, but I`ll get there. I admire the LF shooters out there

Brian C. Miller
8-Dec-2011, 08:48
Andy, jump in with both feet and just do it. Put the drive into your mind, and never give up.

You don't need to enlarge the print yourself. There are plenty of good labs that can make huge prints for you. You just need to supply the negative.

The 4x5 negative has the most cameras, films and accessories for it. I have seen 30x40 prints from 4x5 negatives, and heck, I even saw a 6x8, Ilford 3200 to boot, enlarged at that size look excellent.

It isn't difficult to develop film yourself. If you don't do it, then there are a number of labs which do a lot of mail order business. The process is to "soup" the film in a succession of three chemicals, and then you're done. It's quick and easy.

For a 4x5 negative, you can get the HP CombiPlan tank for daylight development. This means you don't have to have a dedicated darkroom, just a large changing bag to load the film into the tank. Me, I blacked out my bathroom and develop in there. I use both trays and a Jobo processor.

First, get a camera and a lens. High quality cameras and lenses can be purchased for not much money at all. Even what is regarded as "bottom of the barrel" can produced absolutely stunning results. I have a Graflex Super Graphic, and the 135mm Optar lens can resolve bicycle spokes at two blocks. Years ago this package cost me $500, and I've seen them for less. A Calumet Orbit is a very cheap view camera, and Ansel Adams did in fact use one. Put a decent lens on it and go to work, no problem.

If you want instant feedback, you can use Fuji instant films. The PA-45 holder is currently available for $200, and the film packs cost $25 or so. The packs can also be used in the Polaroid 550 holder.

You'll need at least a couple of film holders, a changing bag, and a light meter. Oh, yes, and a good tripod.

Enjoy!

aduncanson
8-Dec-2011, 09:29
Revised:

I agree with Brian. Large Format is not so much more difficult than smaller formats as it is simply different. Loading film holders seems to be intimidating for some folks, but after a short while it becomes simple and trouble-free. Processing sheets in a daylight tank (I use a Jobo) is easy too. I really prefer being able to shoot 2 or 4 sheets and then go process them.

The technical stuff:
Negative to Paper distance = Focal Length X (2 + Magnification + 1/Magnification)

And the really technical stuff:
The above formula neglects the principal point separation distance for the enlarging lens which would be added to the distance calculated above. This separation distance varies with lens design and is not always easy to find but often is negligible. I can't find the principal point separation for a Schneider Componon-S enlarging lens, but for the very similar 150mm Symmar-S it is -2.9mm. If the separation distance is also negative (Rear Principal Point is ahead of the Forward Principal Point) for your enlarging lens then neglecting it will yield a conservative estimate of negative to paper distance.

More fundamentally:
Negative to Lens distance = Focal Length X (1 + 1/Magnification)

Paper to Lens distance = Focal Length X (1 + Magnification)

Both of these distances are actually measured to the appropriate Principal Point but the locations of these principal points are often not known and so many people recommend simply measuring to the aperture.

andyedward
8-Dec-2011, 09:38
Brian: thanks for your encouragement.

I want to do the developing and (eventually) the enlarging myself - this seems like half the enjoyment of shooting film! I have a large enough bathroom and the developing equipment doesn`t seem expensive. I go to a university which has a photographic department so I`ll check out their facilities [I`m on the wrong university course!]

I had considered using polaroid/fuji instant to check for correct exposure. My dslr meters, but LF doesn`t, so I`ll look into getting a light meter

Corran
8-Dec-2011, 10:01
PM'd you Andy.

Alan Gales
8-Dec-2011, 10:45
Andy,

You are right about crawling before walking. Start making 8x10 enlargements to start with. Scan anything you want printed large right now until you get proficient with printing.

Forget about the 35mm and just jump in and buy a large format camera. You can't learn to swim unless you jump into the water!

Alan

winterclock
8-Dec-2011, 17:44
I have to agree that you should just go for it. I started last november with a 5x7 camera, and find that the most important thing is to do it. Take pictures. Set some simple goals at first, work on exposure and focus. The more you work with the camera, the easier you can "see" what your results will be. There is a vast amount of information on this site to help choosing lenses, films and developers. It seems to me that if you really want the big negatives, then you might as well just jump in and do it.

quine
8-Dec-2011, 18:17
You should definitely do the printing yourself. For me, the majority of the effort (and the reward) happens in front of the enlarger. Shooting is easy by comparison. :-P

-andrew