Use of X-ray film: technical discussion with example images [Archive] - Page 23

koraks

9-Apr-2020, 00:31

[QUOTE=koraks;1545866]Haven't tried it I think, but it should work just like with any other film.
But in your opinion, what is the available x-ray film size that fits the (5x7) camera? From your point of view?
I don't think 5x7" xray film is available, but you can get 18x24cm or 8x10" film and cut it down to fit 5x7" holders. Of course there will be some waste.

And will this camera accept that this 4x5 film stand be installed assuming that we will find it individually one way or another depending on luck or the like?
That depends on the camera. You may need to modify the camera and/or the reducing back in order to make things fit. Also, a reducing back generally adds a bit to the distance between the lens and the film, which means there can be problems with focus and movements when short lenses (90mm and shorter) are used. With longer lenses it's usually not a problem. But again, it depends on the specific equipment involved.

- Regarding my question about converting the X-ray film to positive transparency, I mean that is done directly.
Yes, that can be done, just as with any other type of B&W film. You'll have to figure out the processing chemistry and parameters yourself, but that's just a matter of systematic testing, with which I think you are already familiar.

- The file with attachments, and of course the photographic researcher designed this process on the basis of identification with the original process (AGFAscala)202365, but with great regret, he erred in that he designed everything on the basis that it is intended to work on a machine (JOBO) only, and with a capacity (260 ml) Only ml.
Therefore, if you want to prepare one liter, you will fall into the trap of complicated calculations that I failed to calculate, because if you prepare 4 packages, each one is a capacity of (260 ml), and you add them in one container, then the result will become an increase in the concentrations of chemical elements by 300% of the original process design, so I am very confused in this regard.[/B]
Converting to roughly 1 liter doesn't have to be complicated. Just multiply everything in the pdf by 4. This way you end up with 1040ml, which is close enough to 1 liter for any application. If you need exactly 1000ml, just discard the excess 40ml.

mohmadkhatab

9-Apr-2020, 11:53

[QUOTE=mohmadkhatab;1545883]
I don't think 5x7" xray film is available, but you can get 18x24cm or 8x10" film and cut it down to fit 5x7" holders. Of course there will be some waste.

That depends on the camera. You may need to modify the camera and/or the reducing back in order to make things fit. Also, a reducing back generally adds a bit to the distance between the lens and the film, which means there can be problems with focus and movements when short lenses (90mm and shorter) are used. With longer lenses it's usually not a problem. But again, it depends on the specific equipment involved.

Yes, that can be done, just as with any other type of B&W film. You'll have to figure out the processing chemistry and parameters yourself, but that's just a matter of systematic testing, with which I think you are already familiar.

Converting to roughly 1 liter doesn't have to be complicated. Just multiply everything in the pdf by 4. This way you end up with 1040ml, which is close enough to 1 liter for any application. If you need exactly 1000ml, just discard the excess 40ml.
God bless you, thank you for the response.
I am concerned about increasing concentrations, I feel that the calculation of atomic weight and mass will vary. I don't know, a seasoned chemist needs to be consulted, and unfortunately, the great Ron Mawry is dead.
Well, we'll see how it goes. Initially, I have to finish adapting the films on the camera first. Then we can think of other ideas.

Jim Noel

9-Apr-2020, 14:24

[QUOTE=koraks;1546012]
God bless you, thank you for the response.
I am concerned about increasing concentrations, I feel that the calculation of atomic weight and mass will vary. I don't know, a seasoned chemist needs to be consulted, and unfortunately, the great Ron Mawry is dead.
Well, we'll see how it goes. Initially, I have to finish adapting the films on the camera first. Then we can think of other ideas.

This isn't pharmaceutical chemistry. Close enough is fine, anything within 5% . with most formulas tolerance is even greater than that.

blue4130

9-Apr-2020, 16:06

What is the problem in blue?

What is the purpose of obtaining a positive image?
I will answer the question with a question.
- What is the goal of obtaining a negative image?

My last question: Have you ever tried and tested this strange idea?

There is no problem with blue, I was just curious.

As for what is the goal of obtaining a negative, so that I can make an enlargement. The final print is the goal to me, the negative is the road to that goal.

Fr. Mark

9-Apr-2020, 18:18

mohmadkhatab

9-Apr-2020, 21:48

[QUOTE=mohmadkhatab;1546062]

This isn't pharmaceutical chemistry. Close enough is fine, anything within 5% . with most formulas tolerance is even greater than that.

Your view is correct and logical in theory ,,
But in reality I have some frustrating experiences regarding the reverse process. Is it a very sensitive and very complicated process, so I wanted to be very careful about everything about that process ,,
I am tired of wasting chemical raw materials.
I want to have some successes. I am fed up with failure.

mohmadkhatab

9-Apr-2020, 21:56

There is no problem with blue, I was just curious.

As for what is the goal of obtaining a negative, so that I can make an enlargement. The final print is the goal to me, the negative is the road to that goal.

I'm sorry, it seems that my weak language did not make me able to explain my point accurately.
- I mean, if you get a positive film sheet, measuring (8x10) inches, you will not need to print.
- Why do we print the negative ,,?
First, because negativity cannot be seen, nor can we distinguish its features from being negative.
Second: In order to obtain a larger size (suitable for commenting on the walls as a final image, it is also suitable for participating in art exhibitions)
After you get this measurement as a positive image, you now do not need to print the image on paper. I'm done where a sheet of paper can be put into a stool and frame and make a white sheet as the background of the slide.
I don’t know if I could explain that strange point of view or failed again.

mohmadkhatab

9-Apr-2020, 22:08

You can cut X ray under a dim red light, typically. If you do it right 8x10 --> 2 sheets 5x7's and a 1" strip which fits into a 35mm camera. I've made a few tiny format images that way. The image window is 24x36 mm and 1" = 25.4mm it just barely fits the image window, not the sprockets. Don't expect film advance to work well, the film is way too stiff. But it's not complete waste. It can also be used to test fixer.
Thank you very much, Mr. Mark, may God bless you.
I am very impressed by your insistence on detailing a slide for the 35mm camera - this enthusiasm deserves respect and appreciation.
I really like you, man.
But, is it worth it?
- I had two inquiries, Mr Mark. I hope that your chest will expand for me.
First: Is there one of the forum colleagues who tested these films with the developer (HC110)? May I see the results?
Second: Did anyone from the experience of those films for development use the original developer for which they were specially prepared ?,
Here I do not want to use any of the photographic formulas (which are designed for photography), I am talking about the original form of X-ray acids that are sold with the films and in the hospitals accompanied by the films in the X-ray room,
- Actually, I'm thinking of some of those powerful formulas.
I prepare and sell them to hospitals and x-ray centers attached to hospitals.
- Does anyone want these tests,?
I am ready to publish some formats, not the original Fuji format cinema.

seezee

10-Apr-2020, 07:12

Thank you very much, Mr. Mark, may God bless you.
First: Is there one of the forum colleagues who tested these films with the developer (HC110)? May I see the results?
Second: Did anyone from the experience of those films for development use the original developer for which they were specially prepared ?
The developers used by hospitals are intended for use in their rapid development machines. I don't think you'd get the same result by, say, tray developing or developing in a daylight tank meant for home use.

Off the top of my head, I think people on this forum have used every common photographic developer. Pyrocat HD and Rodinal (=Adox Adinol) are particularly popular, but I've seen mention of HC-110, Diafine, and many others.

mohmadkhatab

10-Apr-2020, 12:02

The developers used by hospitals are intended for use in their rapid development machines. I don't think you'd get the same result by, say, tray developing or developing in a daylight tank meant for home use.

Off the top of my head, I think people on this forum have used every common photographic developer. Pyrocat HD and Rodinal (=Adox Adinol) are particularly popular, but I've seen mention of HC-110, Diafine, and many others.

There are two types of developers that can be used in hospitals.
There is a type called (automatic) which is used by an acidizing device. And it is really very fast.
There is another type called (manual), and it is still used manually in poor hospitals that do not have this automatic acid developing device.
The second type is slow and depends on the expertise of the radiologist in developing x-rays. He develops under the red light and knows when it was developed and finishes the process.
I think this type is very important if it is lightened by a large percentage perhaps giving us another vision that we did not know.

blue4130

10-Apr-2020, 15:10

First: Is there one of the forum colleagues who tested these films with the developer (HC110)? May I see the results?

202465202466202467

There are all Fuji x-ray developed in HC110

mohmadkhatab

10-Apr-2020, 17:01

202465202466202467

There are all Fuji x-ray developed in HC110

Amazing results, my dear friend
You are a true creator.
I was hoping for a positive reversal picture, transparent

Corran

10-Apr-2020, 17:22

I was hoping for a positive reversal picture, transparent

In case it hasn't been clear, no one here seems to be pursuing positive images from x-ray films, for reasons already enumerated. You are on your own, so test, test, test, and let us know how it goes so we can copy your process.

seezee

10-Apr-2020, 17:35

There are two types of developers that can be used in hospitals.
There is a type called (automatic) which is used by an acidizing device. And it is really very fast.
There is another type called (manual), and it is still used manually in poor hospitals that do not have this automatic acid developing device.
The second type is slow and depends on the expertise of the radiologist in developing x-rays. He develops under the red light and knows when it was developed and finishes the process.
I think this type is very important if it is lightened by a large percentage perhaps giving us another vision that we did not know.

I did not know about the latter type. You would probably get decent results with it after some trial-and-error.

Dugan

10-Apr-2020, 17:55

Mohmadkhatab,
I recommend that you check posts # 4873, #5389, and #5391 in this thread, you might find them to be helpful and informative. Best of luck!

mohmadkhatab

10-Apr-2020, 20:10

In case it hasn't been clear, no one here seems to be pursuing positive images from x-ray films, for reasons already enumerated. You are on your own, so test, test, test, and let us know how it goes so we can copy your process.

You are absolutely right ,,
Acids are available, I prepare it from scratch.
The camera is still not clear yet, and I did not settle for one while I am confused about this and that and the prices are different and Corona caused total paralysis in the country.

mohmadkhatab

10-Apr-2020, 20:11

Mohmadkhatab,
I recommend that you check posts # 4873, #5389, and #5391 in this thread, you might find them to be helpful and informative. Best of luck!

God bless you and thank you very much for the advice.

mohmadkhatab

11-Apr-2020, 11:10

A friend of mine is a physician and recently unearthed the xray film photo I've pasted below when cleaning out an old medical office. I know nothing about xray film, so I'm curious if anyone knows how an image like this one may have been made--a large positive image on xray film. We also have no idea who took this and where or when it was taken, so if any boating or marina experts out there detect and clues, please share.

Thanks for any insights on this!

173228

I am currently trying to do these tests to convert the X-ray film directly into a positive film without re-imaging during printing or the like.
I am currently in the stage of collecting information, maybe using the method of our colleague in the forum who relied on the positive Ilford (PQ) recipe, or relying on the process Agfa Scala ,,, under study and research, we will see ..

koraks

12-Apr-2020, 03:10

mohmadkhatab

14-Apr-2020, 00:22

Mohmad, I just did a quick test (I had to wait for my girlfriend to get ready for breakfast...)

http://www.koraks.nl/galleries/zut/testing/EBRRT20041_EBRAr_01w.jpg
This is Ektascan B/RA xray film, single sided. Exposed at around EI 12 or so (I normally rate it at 50 for negatives).
First development: in paper developer (a mix of leftovers), ca. 90 seconds - development essentially to completion.
After stop bath (acetic acid) turned on the lights for further processing.
Bleach: dichromate + sulphuric acid
Redevelopment: same developer as for the initial development, again to completion.

Notice a few things:
* The image is fairly dark. This is basically because there's way too much silver halide left after the first development step (and bleaching), even despite the pretty dramatic overexposure.
* The edges are too light. This is due to the use of a concentrated developer and a suboptimal agitation scheme in the first development step. Can easily be resolved by using a more dilute developer and intermittent agitation. But I just did a quick & dirty test.
* Contrast is on the low side, but it's also a low contrast scene to begin with. So overall quite realistic.

The excess overall density is the main issue, and it can be solved by adding a silver solvent (e.g. sodium thiosulfate) to the first developer, or, alternatively, partly fixing the negative in a dilute thiosulfate solution before the first development step. The exact parameters (thiosulfate concentration + fixing time) need to be tailored to the film and the desired contrast. I did not do any of this testing; it involves a systematic approach. As I did this test in a matter of half an hour or so, I didn't bother with it. But to optimize the results, it is required.

Here's the same piece of film held up to the window and photographed with my crappy phone:
http://www.koraks.nl/galleries/zut/testing/EBRRT20041_EBRAr_01ssw.jpg

You are awesome, man.
Very very great ,,
God bless you ,
- If you allow me ,,
I have some remarks, I hope your chest expanded to listen to it.
I find myself more inclined to use potassium thiocyanate instead of sodium thiosulfate, as it means more accurate results.
- I think that the idea that the first developer is the same as the second developer has proven to be a failure of that idea a lot,
- The first developer should contain potassium thiocyanate or sodium thiosulfate (I prefer the first), while the second developer does not contain this component.
- The image still has a lot of silver, as the bleaching is not sufficient, (the time of bleaching is small or the focus of the bleach is weak or both reasons)
The second re-exposure was weak as I thought and relied only on completing the steps with room light (as I think), and this is not enough, the second re-exposure should be done in a concentrated manner and preferably chemical and not dependent on room lighting because re-exposure is using Room lighting will not result in equal and equal exposure in all parts of the film, and accordingly, the image will be a hybrid of negative and positive anonymously.
This is what I thought happened to you,

In any case, you are a great and wonderful man. You were thrown in a stagnant pool.
- This experience will excite the rest of the colleagues to provide more tests, and this is very amazing.
- I got a piece of the camera and the rest of the camera is not available yet, and I want to consult you, what is that piece and is it compatible with all cameras?
God bless you
NB :
Regarding the re-exposure step.
I support the chemical method.
By adding one gram of tin chloride to the second developer.
Work in complete darkness in all steps.
202599
202600
202601

koraks

14-Apr-2020, 03:12

You are awesome, man.
Very very great ,,
God bless you ,
- If you allow me ,,
I have some remarks, I hope your chest expanded to listen to it.

Many thanks, Mohmad, for your kind words and for sharing your thoughts. Please allow me to respond on them:

I find myself more inclined to use potassium thiocyanate instead of sodium thiosulfate, as it means more accurate results.
- I think that the idea that the first developer is the same as the second developer has proven to be a failure of that idea a lot,
- The first developer should contain potassium thiocyanate or sodium thiosulfate (I prefer the first), while the second developer does not contain this component.
Yes, I agree. The first developer should ideally contain a silver solvent, or alternatively a separate silver solvent process step should be performed before the bleach step. I think the choice between thiocyanate and thiosulfate is perhaps a personal one; why would you prefer thiocyanate?

- The image still has a lot of silver, as the bleaching is not sufficient, (the time of bleaching is small or the focus of the bleach is weak or both reasons)
I do not think the bleaching was insufficient. It was essentially complete, and this was easily verified visually since bleaching was done under normal light. Additionally, dichromate bleach is always very fast and effective in my experience.

The second re-exposure was weak as I thought and relied only on completing the steps with room light (as I think), and this is not enough, the second re-exposure should be done in a concentrated manner and preferably chemical and not dependent on room lighting because re-exposure is using Room lighting will not result in equal and equal exposure in all parts of the film, and accordingly, the image will be a hybrid of negative and positive anonymously.
In the image shown, I turned on the room lights after the stop bath and kept them on for processing. Note that my room lights are very bright indeed and exposure to them will fully expose any film, no matter what speed, within a second or so. In a subsequent experiment I reduced the exposure by a controlled one-second exposure to my room light. The effect was identical. This suggests that the fogging exposure was complete in both instances.

Regarding the re-exposure step.
I support the chemical method.
By adding one gram of tin chloride to the second developer.
Yes, I would prefer a chemical fogging step as well. Sadly, I do not have any tin chloride on hand. I might give it a try with sepia toner, but this of course modifies the image tone and adds some density as well on top of the silver image alone.

As to your question on the equipment: it looks like a grafmatic 4x5" film holder. I have never used them, but as far as I understand, it is basically a standard 4x5" film holder with a little number dial that can be used to identify individual holders by exposing a number on each film sheet. I know that one or more people on this forums use these holders. I don't know in which cameras they may or may not fit. I mostly use Lisco Regal film holders.

mohmadkhatab

14-Apr-2020, 14:53

Many thanks, Mohmad, for your kind words and for sharing your thoughts. Please allow me to respond on them:

Yes, I agree. The first developer should ideally contain a silver solvent, or alternatively a separate silver solvent process step should be performed before the bleach step. I think the choice between thiocyanate and thiosulfate is perhaps a personal one; why would you prefer thiocyanate?

I do not think the bleaching was insufficient. It was essentially complete, and this was easily verified visually since bleaching was done under normal light. Additionally, dichromate bleach is always very fast and effective in my experience.

In the image shown, I turned on the room lights after the stop bath and kept them on for processing. Note that my room lights are very bright indeed and exposure to them will fully expose any film, no matter what speed, within a second or so. In a subsequent experiment I reduced the exposure by a controlled one-second exposure to my room light. The effect was identical. This suggests that the fogging exposure was complete in both instances.

Yes, I would prefer a chemical fogging step as well. Sadly, I do not have any tin chloride on hand. I might give it a try with sepia toner, but this of course modifies the image tone and adds some density as well on top of the silver image alone.

As to your question on the equipment: it looks like a grafmatic 4x5" film holder. I have never used them, but as far as I understand, it is basically a standard 4x5" film holder with a little number dial that can be used to identify individual holders by exposing a number on each film sheet. I know that one or more people on this forums use these holders. I don't know in which cameras they may or may not fit. I mostly use Lisco Regal film holders.
Hello my dear friend. God bless you .
Happy Easter Holiday .
First, there are many experiments that have proven that potassium thiocyanate works with better accuracy than sodium thiosulfate. Experience (the worksheet I attached before that pertains to the process, Agfa Scala indicates this).
Second - bleaching is strong, but inaccurate. For this, speed does not necessarily mean accuracy, you should increase the time a little, perhaps an additional minute (trust me), or use potassium permanganate because it is very accurate in dealing with all the nanoparticles.
Third - If you want to get a transparent sepia of dark brown, then you will not need to use (re-exposure solution) nor will you need to use the second developer.
You will only need to use ammonia solution.
It consists of:
Deionized water
150 g ammonium chloride
200 ml ammonium hydroxide solution 20%
Water up to 1 liter - used as follows.
Initial wash with lukewarm water
The first developer
Stop Bath
Quick wash
Bleach
Quick wash
Cleaning Bath
Quick wash
Ammonia solution three minutes bath with rapid and violent stirring
wash
wash
Fix
Final wash. Staples
Dealing with an ammonia solution will require wearing a mask mask and safety glasses - working near the ventilator hood. It is a very stupid and evil solution.
Finally, I think working in total darkness is a good thing.
-------------------------------------------------- ----------
I brought a data sheet ,, a seller from Ukraine sent me and told me that this type of industrial X-ray film is good quality ..
Could you please take a look and tell me what you think is this paper please. (ttp://www.astrum-ltd.com/foma_indux_r4.html)
God bless you i

seezee

15-Apr-2020, 07:50

I brought a data sheet ,, a seller from Ukraine sent me and told me that this type of industrial X-ray film is good quality ..
Could you please take a look and tell me what you think is this paper please. (ttp://www.astrum-ltd.com/foma_indux_r4.html)
God bless you i

Your link is malformed; it should start with "http://" but it starts with "ttp://". In any case, I was able to look at the datasheet & it doesn't provide a lot of useful information. The film is medium speed but that doesn't translate directly to an ISO/ASA film speed; as noted elsewhere in this forum you'll need to do film speed tests yourself to determine the film speed. And remember that x-ray film speed changes under different lighting conditions due to its narrow spectral sensitivity.

The only other noteworthy data are that it is high contrast (most or all x-ray film is) and fine-grained, and that it comes in a variety of sizes.

Regarding the film holders, you're better off (for now, at least) with a standard film holder sized appropriately for your camera or reducing back. You'll find Regal, Lisco, Fidelity Deluxe, Riteway, Eastman Kodak, and Toyo are all readily available. I prefer the Toyo holders as they are very precisely manufactured and they weigh less than some of the older holders, but any of these will work.

Here is a discussion of film holders (https://www.largeformatphotography.info/holders.html) from this forum.

Since you'll probably be cutting down larger film to fit your holders, remember that the nominal size is a bit larger than the actual film size needed to fit. For instance, 4″×5″ film is actually closer to 3⅞″×4⅞″. I put white tape on my paper cutter to act as a guide when I'm trimming x-ray film.

mohmadkhatab

15-Apr-2020, 15:39

Your link is malformed; it should start with "http://" but it starts with "ttp://". In any case, I was able to look at the datasheet & it doesn't provide a lot of useful information. The film is medium speed but that doesn't translate directly to an ISO/ASA film speed; as noted elsewhere in this forum you'll need to do film speed tests yourself to determine the film speed. And remember that x-ray film speed changes under different lighting conditions due to its narrow spectral sensitivity.

The only other noteworthy data are that it is high contrast (most or all x-ray film is) and fine-grained, and that it comes in a variety of sizes.

Regarding the film holders, you're better off (for now, at least) with a standard film holder sized appropriately for your camera or reducing back. You'll find Regal, Lisco, Fidelity Deluxe, Riteway, Eastman Kodak, and Toyo are all readily available. I prefer the Toyo holders as they are very precisely manufactured and they weigh less than some of the older holders, but any of these will work.

Here is a discussion of film holders (https://www.largeformatphotography.info/holders.html) from this forum.

Since you'll probably be cutting down larger film to fit your holders, remember that the nominal size is a bit larger than the actual film size needed to fit. For instance, 4″×5″ film is actually closer to 3⅞″×4⅞″. I put white tape on my paper cutter to act as a guide when I'm trimming x-ray film.
God bless you, my dear teacher.
You are a very nice man.
Greetings to all of you, all respected Oklahoma City metro.
I benefited greatly from your wonderful response.
Regarding the movie stand.
This piece was given to me by an Egyptian doctor who bought it from America a long time ago and does not want it, he had known that I was looking to buy a large camera, and for this he wanted to give it to me and says that this piece can carry up to eight slides at once and switch between them after Every picture.
I actually don't really know, and I'm still looking for a cheap camera and it's complicated in light of the emergency imposed in the country.
God bless you
Greetings to you, dear sir.

koraks

16-Apr-2020, 22:16

I checked the datasheet of the foma xray film. It seems to be intended for direct exposure with xrays, not with visible light. The emulsion is likely still sensitive to at least blue light and perhaps green, but some testing would be required to figure out if and how it can be used for photography. Frankly, I'd skip this film and choose a film stock that is known to work with normal light.

Raghu Kuvempunagar

16-Apr-2020, 22:28

Third - If you want to get a transparent sepia of dark brown, then you will not need to use (re-exposure solution) nor will you need to use the second developer.
You will only need to use ammonia solution.
It consists of:
Deionized water
150 g ammonium chloride
200 ml ammonium hydroxide solution 20%
Water up to 1 liter - used as follows.
Initial wash with lukewarm water

Mohmad, thanks for sharing. I'm curious to know from where did you get this formula. And have you used it?

Jim Noel

17-Apr-2020, 07:00

mohmadkhatab

17-Apr-2020, 07:12

I got it from my Austrian friend, Mr. Rudi.
Mr. Rudi, today he went to his father's funeral, Professor at the Faculty of Agriculture and he was a great man.
I really did try that recipe and came up with somewhat acceptable results, but the movie was expired and the first developer didn't get the job done best. Unfortunately, the first developer was weak, at that time I used the first process developer (AP41), which was then the developer I had today.
- But it was preliminary results indicating that the formula as a whole is correct, but the first developer must be very strong and very effective more than we thought.
- I will repeat those tests again, but I am waiting for fresh black and white films that will come to me from Ukraine soon,

mohmadkhatab

17-Apr-2020, 07:13

This is an important and optimistic narration.

koraks

17-Apr-2020, 07:41

I have experimented with several "x-ray only" films and have not found one I could not use in cameras.
How do the 'xray only' films relate to the 'regular xray' films in your experience? Comparable, or slower + higher contrast?

Raghu Kuvempunagar

17-Apr-2020, 09:16

- I will repeat those tests again, but I am waiting for fresh black and white films that will come to me from Ukraine soon,

Thanks Mohmad. Much appreciated.

Jim Noel

17-Apr-2020, 14:10

How do the 'xray only' films relate to the 'regular xray' films in your experience? Comparable, or slower + higher contrast?

SOme slower,some faster, and contrast dependent on developer and method. I did this experimentation 20+ years ago and have no current notes.

mohmadkhatab

17-Apr-2020, 17:16

SOme slower,some faster, and contrast dependent on developer and method. I did this experimentation 20+ years ago and have no current notes.

I was contacted by an Egyptian dealer, who was offered a green 10 x 12 cm Fuji X-ray film.
In fact ,, I am seeking to know the characteristics of each species or class through the experiences and tests of professors who preceded me in this field and have a lot of practical experience ..
- If you don't mind,
I hope you give me an overview of each category and the best way to deal with it and the best developer that is compatible with it.
God bless you

blue4130

17-Apr-2020, 21:03

All of the shots that I have posted are with Fuji green. Its called Super HR-UC

mohmadkhatab

18-Apr-2020, 04:22

All of the shots that I have posted are with Fuji green. Its called Super HR-UC

+1

seezee

18-Apr-2020, 09:24

I was contacted by an Egyptian dealer, who was offered a green 10 x 12 cm Fuji X-ray film.
In fact ,, I am seeking to know the characteristics of each species or class through the experiences and tests of professors who preceded me in this field and have a lot of practical experience ..
- If you don't mind,
I hope you give me an overview of each category and the best way to deal with it and the best developer that is compatible with it.
God bless you

Mohmad, there are so many variables that our past experience may not apply to your exact situation with this film. Just as with regular film, it's best for you to do your own exposure tests and developer tests. However, if you have the patience to read this entire discussion (500+ pages!) you will see many examples of people using this exact film, along with exposure information and developer information.

I know it's a lot to dig through but it is worth it.

I mentioned several developers in a previous reply to you — they are well tested by forum members for x-ray film. You could get good results from any of them if you can source them (or the ingredients to make them). Best of luck to you!

captainscot

18-Apr-2020, 14:40

captainscot

18-Apr-2020, 15:25

202783

And here is the same shot useing 7x17 Ilford FP4'

mohmadkhatab

19-Apr-2020, 09:39

Mohmad, there are so many variables that our past experience may not apply to your exact situation with this film. Just as with regular film, it's best for you to do your own exposure tests and developer tests. However, if you have the patience to read this entire discussion (500+ pages!) you will see many examples of people using this exact film, along with exposure information and developer information.

I know it's a lot to dig through but it is worth it.

I mentioned several developers in a previous reply to you — they are well tested by forum members for x-ray film. You could get good results from any of them if you can source them (or the ingredients to make them). Best of luck to you!
God bless you ,,
Happy Easter Holiday ,,
You are really a good man,
I am very interested in your suggestion. I think it is a very interesting and important proposal.
I am currently in the pre-trial phase, which is the stage of gathering information. Yes, I will read 500 pages. Why not. The story is a story of research, research and studies in the first place. There is nothing wrong with reading ,,
- I never asked for solutions on a plate of gold. I know that I have to strive and strive to reach the desired goals, and this is the difference between those who strive and those who do not.
Greetings to you ,, God bless you.

mohmadkhatab

19-Apr-2020, 09:41

202781

I have been useing the single sided Ektascan rated at 50, 7x17 cut down from 14x17. Processed in a Unicolor 16x20 drum on a reversing unicolor motor...7ml of HC-110 syrup to 1,000ml of water for 15 mins. This has been working good for me.

These are very great results, my dear colleague.
These are amazing results,
I am very happy with these great results ,,
Greetings to you.

HoodedOne

27-Apr-2020, 23:17

My entry for WPPD this year

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49825216018_85e542ec86_b.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2iUTfQA)2020-008_DxO by -HoodedOne- (https://flic.kr/p/2iUTfQA)

Shot made with ONDU 8x10 pinhole camera, on fuji x-ray film. Developed in microphen (stock)

mohmadkhatab

29-Apr-2020, 04:55

God bless you - this is a very impressive and amazing success
Greetings to you

Natenaaron

29-Apr-2020, 08:22

nice

senderoaburrido

11-May-2020, 10:50

I have sad news: Carestream Ektascan B/RA has been discontinued. Does anyone know of any other single-emulsion films available? Or does anyone have any leftover stock they're not using? I'd come to rely on its orthochromacy for a particular project I'm doing.

senderoaburrido

11-May-2020, 12:29

Hello,

A portrait with my 8x10 camera : 18x24cm (European size) Fuji ADM MAMO at ISO100, dev HC110 Dil. H 6 mins 20°C.
In shadows under the trees at 11AM

https://www.franck-rondot.com/images/Images%20locale/Divers/post_forums/Portrait%20chambre%208x10%20N%26B%20X-Ray%20-%20Franck%20Rondot%20Photographe.jpg

Is ADM MAMO the same as UM-MA? I'm considering buying some UM-MA.

seezee

13-May-2020, 11:48

Peter De Smidt

13-May-2020, 12:20

Terrific portrait!

Scyg

13-May-2020, 12:46

Curious where everyone's getting their x-ray film? Also, besides the difference between the blue and green and single- and double-emulsion versions, there seems to be an astounding variety of special application films (mammography, etc.). Apologies if this has been covered already, but with 500+ posts in this thread I haven't been able to find a basic explanation of what to look for in these. Can anyone briefly outline the most fundamental differences?

Tin Can

13-May-2020, 12:52

ZZ told me the same and refunded me $320 from a case order this week

Perhaps I got the last 2 boxes last month, when I placed the case order and paid for 5 boxes

They said at that time they had some coming...guess not...or a machiavellian plot is afoot...

BUT 6 years ago I was told by ZZ 14X17" Ektascan was 86, but I and they persevered and found me a case after a long while

Sometimes there is some somewhere, but right now nobody is searching too hard, as few are working or if they are, they are maximizing their profits, just as I would...

I suggest you buy 2X-side now, before it goes, it also works fine

Was this from the manufacturer? A supplier? Or somewhere else?

Tin Can

13-May-2020, 13:04

I buy only from ZZ and usually only Carestream which is made by Kodak and is T grain

Double sided seems to be all there is now

8X10 and 11X14 will fit normal photo holders, the rest is a crapshoot

But I often cut it down to smaller sizes and I see right now none is FS on ZZ from this list https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/carestream-x-ray-film.html

IF and I am not buying anymore this looks like a great deal https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/fuji-x-ray-film/8x10-in-fuji-x-ray-film.html

I have been warning for 2 years that X-Ray film is dead... soon

AND MOST OF US HAVE READ THE WHOLE THREAD

Curious where everyone's getting their x-ray film? Also, besides the difference between the blue and green and single- and double-emulsion versions, there seems to be an astounding variety of special application films (mammography, etc.). Apologies if this has been covered already, but with 500+ posts in this thread I haven't been able to find a basic explanation of what to look for in these. Can anyone briefly outline the most fundamental differences?

Jim Noel

13-May-2020, 15:16

I agree,and I also bought only from ZZ It's too bad the Carestream single sided is no more,but I have my lifetime supply. My wife has frequently said I am going to die with film in the freezer. I hope so, and at 91 it's very possible. So goes life.
Those who missed out on the final run will have to learn to be extremely careful so they can use the double sided stuff. I am in the same boat with 5x12, but it doesn't worry me. When I began this voyage through a life in photography, all the film was very delicate and had to be handled with great care. It only takes practice,a lot of practice, so hang in and don't give up.

MAubrey

13-May-2020, 15:27

The best way to use the double sided stuff, in my experience, is in a vertical tank to avoid scratches. I built one out of acrylic for 11x14.

Tin Can

13-May-2020, 15:39

I agree with Jim

2X X-Ray works fine, it does scratch if not loaded carefully. I learned how to NOT scratch even with my clumsy fingers

I recommended the above 2x, buy the cheaper Green as it's way cheaper. Always buy the cheaper, blue of green means almost nothing for our uses.

I also recommend the same thing in 14X17" as it does fit 14X17" plastic Medical DDS https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/fuji-x-ray-film/14x17-in-fuji-x-ray-film.html

Which is almost exactly the same price per sq inch

I have cut 2X down to fit Hasselblad sheet film holders, and was amazed how sharp the tiny images were.

Fr. Mark

13-May-2020, 17:09

Someone was looking for some Ektascan B/RA to finish a project. I have a little (under 20 sheets) if that's helpful let me know, it is 8x10 and several years at room temp, it worked fine the last I used it but darkroom work is on back burner right now. I'd like to recover cost and shipping.

I've also cut it down for 5x7 and that leaves you with a 1" piece that makes super sharp images in 35mm cameras loaded in the red lighted dim/darkroom.

Fr. Mark

13-May-2020, 17:12

the link above is to 14x17 at 86 cents a sheet. Wow. Might have to build a 14x17 so I can afford to shoot film...hahaha...not funny. seriously tempting. I think I will stick to 8x10 for now, and learn to do good work on 2 sided in film hangers in skinny tanks first.

Corran

13-May-2020, 18:02

Thanks for the reminder. Bought 200 sheets of 14x17 film because...well I have a 14x17 holder here now.

Nothing else, but that's a good start! :)

Scyg

13-May-2020, 18:05

Always buy the cheaper, blue of green means almost nothing for our uses.

Green is orthochromatic, blue is just blue-sensitive. That should make a huge difference in tonality. Anyway, just ordered some green Fujifilm from ZZ. Worst case scenario will have lots of practice film.

Dugan

13-May-2020, 18:40

Look for Agfa Mamoray HDR-C Plus...its single sided. Looks like it comes in 24x30 cm.

MAubrey

13-May-2020, 19:21

Green is orthochromatic, blue is just blue-sensitive. That should make a huge difference in tonality. Anyway, just ordered some green Fujifilm from ZZ. Worst case scenario will have lots of practice film.
When it comes to learning ultra-large format, having cheap practice film is necessarily part of the best case scenario!

Philippe Grunchec

14-May-2020, 02:49

Scyg

14-May-2020, 03:20

Do you get Fujifilm in 8x10" or 18x24cm?
Thx
8x10. Wouldn't have much use for 18x24. Otherwise would have gone for the single sided mammography film.

Philippe Grunchec

14-May-2020, 05:01

Here in Europe we only get the 18x24cm version, that's why I was asking! I'd love to get it in 8x10"...

senderoaburrido

14-May-2020, 05:18

Green is orthochromatic, blue is just blue-sensitive. That should make a huge difference in tonality. Anyway, just ordered some green Fujifilm from ZZ. Worst case scenario will have lots of practice film.

It really does seem to depend. I've looked at the spectral sensitivity charts for Ektascan B/RA and UM-MA (a supposedly green-sensitive mammography film), and both are almost identical across the graph, despite differences in the way they are advertised. I would assume that HR-U and others are very similar. I'm currently awaiting a test box of some expired UM-MA, which should be in the mail right now. If it works out, I'll let everyone here know.

Fujifilm UM-MA is, by case, slightly cheaper than Ektascan B/RA. It has roughly the same spectral sensitivity, and possesses single-sided emulsion The only major disadvantage is that it comes in 18x24cm or 24x30cm sheets. This means that one has to cut it down rather wastefully, if they are turning it into 4x5 sheets. At 427$ for a case of 24x30cm sheets, it will work out to being about .30 CAD per sheet before shipping, which beats Ektascan B/RA by 2 cents CAD per cut-down 4x5 sheet.

Look for Agfa Mamoray HDR-C Plus...its single sided. Looks like it comes in 24x30 cm.

Agfa Mamoray, as I discovered, does have a different spectral sensitivity profile. You can see it here: https://medimg.agfa.com/dach/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2016/12/MAMORAY_HDR-C_Plus-3.pdf. For normal photographic purposes, it should not be very different from any of the others, excepting that it is much less sensitive to UV light. This may prove to be an advantage for many of you. In my case, this is actually a problem.

Tin Can

14-May-2020, 06:37

What is your supplier?

Does UM-MA have anti-halation layer?

It really does seem to depend. I've looked at the spectral sensitivity charts for Ektascan B/RA and UM-MA (a supposedly green-sensitive mammography film), and both are almost identical across the graph, despite differences in the way they are advertised. I would assume that HR-U and others are very similar. I'm currently awaiting a test box of some expired UM-MA, which should be in the mail right now. If it works out, I'll let everyone here know.

Fujifilm UM-MA is, by case, slightly cheaper than Ektascan B/RA. It has roughly the same spectral sensitivity, and possesses single-sided emulsion The only major disadvantage is that it comes in 18x24cm or 24x30cm sheets. This means that one has to cut it down rather wastefully, if they are turning it into 4x5 sheets. At 427$ for a case of 24x30cm sheets, it will work out to being about .30 CAD per sheet before shipping, which beats Ektascan B/RA by 2 cents CAD per cut-down 4x5 sheet.

Agfa Mamoray, as I discovered, does have a different spectral sensitivity profile. You can see it here: https://medimg.agfa.com/dach/wp-content/uploads/sites/8/2016/12/MAMORAY_HDR-C_Plus-3.pdf. For normal photographic purposes, it should not be very different from any of the others, excepting that it is much less sensitive to UV light. This may prove to be an advantage for many of you. In my case, this is actually a problem.

senderoaburrido

14-May-2020, 08:22

What is your supplier?

Does UM-MA have anti-halation layer?

If I recall correctly from the datasheet I found, it does. ZZ Medical sells it, only by the case.

Tin Can

14-May-2020, 08:51

seezee

14-May-2020, 09:12

senderoaburrido

14-May-2020, 12:55

I doubt it does, I read the Data sheet, no mention

Ektascan was made for photographing CRT screens, anti-halation would be good for that, not sure if Mammography screens would need or want it

https://www.breastcancer.org/symptoms/testing/types/mammograms/types

Nonetheless, the ZZ price is good, but the wait is long

I now worry any business may disappear shortly, every $$$ counts now

I'm happy to say that you're incorrect. It's on the datasheet.

203727

I also found a paper where B/RA and UM-MA are directly compared (https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/12529443.pdf), which does buttress my case that they are probably roughly analogous. I encourage anyone to review the datasheets of both. Their spectral sensitivity profiles are nearly identical. By most metrics they are analogous, save for the formats they come in.

Tin Can

14-May-2020, 13:07

Good news

Thank you

I'm happy to say that you're incorrect. It's on the datasheet.

203727

I also found a paper where B/RA and UM-MA are directly compared (https://core.ac.uk/download/pdf/12529443.pdf), which does buttress my case that they are probably roughly analogous. I encourage anyone to review the datasheets of both. Their spectral sensitivity profiles are nearly identical. By most metrics they are analogous, save for the formats they come in.

senderoaburrido

14-May-2020, 15:52

As for the wait at ZZ, I called them and specifically asked about this film. They told me that the wait time posted on their site was inaccurately long.

senderoaburrido

14-May-2020, 17:26

203733203734

Here are the two spectral sensitivity graphs side-by-side.

Roger Thoms

16-May-2020, 15:37

Looks like Tim still has one box of 14x17 B/RA available. Item # 293175436749 on eBay.

Roger

senderoaburrido

3-Jun-2020, 15:42

Okay, so I have my hands on some UM-MA. Has anyone here worked with this film before? I'm going to start testing both dev and exposure, then will report back. To begin, I will develop it as I did EB/RA. Does anyone have any thoughts as to why that might be a bad idea? These films seem very, very, very roughly analogous.

Scyg

3-Jun-2020, 16:38

Okay, so I have my hands on some UM-MA.

Looks like a good one for photographic use. Wish they had it in 8x10.

jmdavis

19-Jun-2020, 13:43

Has anyone tried the Stearman SP-810 for x-ray film?

senderoaburrido

26-Jun-2020, 14:55

205175

devb

26-Jun-2020, 15:53

Something called M Plus - Half Blue. Shot at 100, dev HC-110 h for 6 minutes. 10 stop ND filter. Used reciprocity times for Delta 100 as an experiment, which has failed at night but worked great during the day for this test.

205177

Tin Can

26-Jun-2020, 15:54

Love it!

205175

senderoaburrido

26-Jun-2020, 16:33

devb

27-Jun-2020, 05:36

Where'd you get it?

A local doctor was upgrading to digital and couldn't find anyone to dispose of the old stuff, so I loaded it all into my car. Dropped the chemicals off at the hazmat facility, kept the film. 150 sheets 10"x12", expired 2014. Cut down to 4x5 with a Dahle rolling trimmer.

schlicksbier

9-Jul-2020, 02:56

With 559 pages in question I hope that you forgive me asking, but has anyone recommodations for Fuji UM-MA or Agfa HDR-C in HC110 or Rodinal?

I've noticed today with horror that the Fuji AD-M, which came great in HC110, is discontinued :-(. So I have to look for alternatives ...

Tin Can

9-Jul-2020, 03:53

All analogue, and not Laser X-ray film is easily processed in any 'normal' film developer, stop and fix.

It's real film

Corran

9-Jul-2020, 06:53

Peter De Smidt

9-Jul-2020, 08:43

ZZ medical says that Ektascan is gone. They recommend trying: https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/fuji-x-ray-film/fuji-um-ma-mammography-x-ray-film.html#amcustomtabs_tabs_1

500 sheets of 18x24 cm =7x9.4" is $285 plus shipping.
500 sheets of 24x30 = 10x12" $427 plus shipping.

Tin Can

9-Jul-2020, 08:47

I'm after the 14X36" 2X as I always have plans...

ZZ medical says that Ektascan is gone. They recommend trying: https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/fuji-x-ray-film/fuji-um-ma-mammography-x-ray-film.html#amcustomtabs_tabs_1

500 sheets of 18x24 cm =7x9.4" is $285 plus shipping.
500 sheets of 24x30 = 10x12" $427 plus shipping.

schlicksbier

10-Jul-2020, 01:15

6-7 minutes in Rodinal 1:100 at 68F is almost always what I recommend starting with for any x-ray film.

Although x-ray film seem to quite differ in ISO as far as I have read here ...

BTW: Kodak Min R 2000 Plus seems to work very well either: https://www.flickr.com/photos/macieklesniak/16193630057

Corran

10-Jul-2020, 06:55

They may differ in ISO (EI) but this doesn't mean that formula is not a good starting place for development. The common suggestion is to "test" because it is fairly cheap to do so.

Recently got a couple boxes of my preferred slow, green-sensitive film in 14x17...now just have to find/build a way to expose it :).

Daniel Unkefer

10-Jul-2020, 08:05

I want give XRay films a good try and here is what I have so far.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50097545881_5728b6e9cf_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jjX224)XRay Films for 8x10 13x18 5x7 Sinar Normas (https://flic.kr/p/2jjX224) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

If the HRU works out well for me, I will load up on it. Is anybody using the blue Fuji, is it different in use from the green as in worth having both?

I know the MINR is one sided so I picked up 300 sheets at a good price. I do have 18x24cm Film Holders and that will make nice contact prints. Also I can quarter these into four 9x12cm sheets :)

I do have some holders loaded up. Just waiting for a strong subject to pop up when I have time.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuji-Green-HR-U-X-ray-Film-8x10-inch-box/322659379435?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuji-Blue-Super-RX-X-ray-Film-8x10-inch-box/323049019156?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

jmdavis

10-Jul-2020, 16:32

How are you storing the min- R?

Daniel Unkefer

10-Jul-2020, 16:43

How are you storing the min- R?

62F cool dry conditions.

jmdavis

10-Jul-2020, 16:46

Thanks

LF_Alex

11-Jul-2020, 06:25

How are you rating HRUs ISO?

Daniel Unkefer

11-Jul-2020, 06:41

I'm going to start at EI 50 with HRU and Rodinal 1:100 for nine minutes. I can always adjust from there.

Jim Noel

11-Jul-2020, 08:37

I rate HRU @100 and develop in Pyrocat HD+, 2,2,100 by inspection.

Corran

11-Jul-2020, 10:12

I used to shoot HR-T at 50 but gradually moved up to an EI of 80 or 100. I think 9 minutes in Rodinal will be overcooked but it doesn't hurt to try.

Daniel Unkefer

11-Jul-2020, 10:27

Thnx Bryan and Jim.

I think 100 is now a good starting point; I like to bracket so I'll try 80 or as 64 as well.

I know highlight density builds really fast with XRay. Pyro PMK+ is my time tested soup. Also it will harden the HRU soft emulsion I hope?
Also I have a gallon of straight Acufine I've been replenishing for a while. Might have a go with that.

Roto trimming both of these films does not seem to make any scratches I can detect, which is good news. I did buy 8x10 Cesco white smooth bottom trays so that should work? We will see. Maybe I'll be some XRay hangers and fire up my 3 1/2 gallon 3F tanks for basket line?

As far as printing, I have a new split-filtering contact light source that uses 6x6" Multigrade filters. I think these XRAY negs would benefit from split-printing?

seezee

11-Jul-2020, 17:16

Pyro PMK+ is my time tested soup. Also it will harden the HRU soft emulsion I hope?\

Don't hold your breath.

bnxvs

11-Jul-2020, 20:48

How are you rating HRUs ISO?
About 200 E.I. (in P.Gainer's Metolal)

philfrem14

17-Jul-2020, 03:58

6-7 minutes in Rodinal 1:100 at 68F is almost always what I recommend starting with for any x-ray film.

Hi Corran,
6-7 min in Rodinal but for what sensitivity for the film: 100iso?

Corran

17-Jul-2020, 06:16

Read the rest of the discussion in the last couple pages. 50-200 depending on the person, I go for 80-100 myself. You may need to adjust for your sensibility/process.

jmdavis

19-Jul-2020, 08:25

I have my first 4 sheets of Fuji UM-MA loaded into holders. My plan is to shoot at ISO100, develop in Pyrocat by inspection. First inspection will be at 5:30, since my "cold" water is in the mid 70s in the summer. Final prints will be on Grade3 Azo, Grade 2 Lodima, or Grade 3 Lupex depending on the negative contrast.

bnxvs

19-Jul-2020, 20:43

Battle for contrast :D
206040

Aerostigmat

7-Aug-2020, 16:09

I cant speak for Fuji UM-MA, or AD-M. BUT...I have had my best luck to date on Kodak X-sight (asa 100) with Rodinol at 1:200, 68 degrees and a 30 minute semi stand development.
Hopefully the attached file will come through...206677
Busch 4x5 Pressman with 135mm Raptar at f22 and 1/10th second.
Overcast day of course.....I can never get the contrast tamed enough when its sunny.:(

faraz

9-Aug-2020, 00:53

My first attempt at using xray film, just a quick test. It's on Carestream MXG, shot 8x10 (cropped here) at ISO 100, developed in PQ Universal by inspection. This is a scan with some tonal adjustements, edge burning and toning applied. Will try to contact print it later.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50205191931_990c868ba0_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jusJrr)

schlicksbier

16-Aug-2020, 13:20

I know the MINR is one sided so I picked up 300 sheets at a good price. I do have 18x24cm Film Holders and that will make nice contact prints. Also I can quarter these into four 9x12cm sheets :)

Did you get good results with that film yet?

Daniel Unkefer

16-Aug-2020, 17:06

I have loaded 5x7 and 18x24cm holders with MINR but have not tested as of yet.

My cameras are old and have not been used for a while. I have been cleaning and repairing them, ready to take out soon.

Will post some results soon as I have time.

Brianr

4-Sep-2020, 15:08

A 5x7 from my roc Kenwood. Fuji HRU. Rodinol 1:100 for 6 minutes, tray developed. Shot at ISO 100.
207461

Tin Can

4-Sep-2020, 15:30

Nice, post that in September Portraits!

You may have to start the thread

A 5x7 from my roc Kenwood. Fuji HRU. Rodinol 1:100 for 6 minutes, tray developed. Shot at ISO 100.
207461

Mattk

11-Sep-2020, 17:16

Tin Can

11-Sep-2020, 21:38

Like’

207670
Half speed green, unsure of brand. Rating it at 5 to 10 and developing for 12mins in D-76 diluted 1:3. I was really struggling with exposures until I realized 6 mins in the soup was way to short! Lens is a Cooke series II in a compound shutter (prior to the soft focus). Overcast and breezy day 2 sec@4.5 hopefully all the sheets are in this good of shape. Expired in 2011.

bnxvs

12-Sep-2020, 08:31

Test Fuji HR-U in KGB-20 (homemade clone HC-110), dilution "F". 4x5, exp. as 200 E.I. Manual tray dev-t 3 min.

207687

Jim Noel

12-Sep-2020, 08:41

207670
Half speed green, unsure of brand. Rating it at 5 to 10 and developing for 12mins in D-76 diluted 1:3. I was really struggling with exposures until I realized 6 mins in the soup was way to short! Lens is a Cooke series II in a compound shutter (prior to the soft focus). Overcast and breezy day 2 sec@4.5 hopefully all the sheets are in this good of shape. Expired in 2011.

REMINDER; On cloudy days, as well as early morning and late afternoon the available light contains more red to which x-ray and other orthochromatic emulsions are not sensitive. Thus - underexposure if not accounted for. Although I generally use a film speed of 100, I have gone as low as 6 on very overcast days which we have frequently.

senderoaburrido

12-Sep-2020, 21:59

207727

Tin Can

13-Sep-2020, 03:45

Like!

and again a portrait that could be posted in September Portraits

207727

Daniel Unkefer

13-Sep-2020, 08:47

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50337946877_50d88d1cab_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jGc8RP)4x5 Fuji HRU Mic-X 5 minutes (https://flic.kr/p/2jGc8RP) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

My first Norma 4x5 photo in twenty five years taken yesterday. Fuji 8x10 HR-U X-Ray cut down to 4x5, Graphmatic Holder, 4x5 Sinar Norma 180mm f5.6 chrome Durst Componon lens, full key sun. This was exposure #6, two stops over ambient reading of grey card EI 50 TTL Sinarsix 1/15 @ Fll. Short development is stock Legacy Mic-X 5 minutes 68F. Cesco flat bottomed 8x10 trays, sheets developed singly. I did a sort of ring-around, varying exposure and development times. This is the lowest contrast version which I like. Very little scratching so I am pleased.

8x10 Arista RC #2 Multigrade dev Omega DII with Omegalite circuline head

Cool thing is this works out to about 7 cents per 4x5 sheet. I may load up the truck :)

Daniel Unkefer

13-Sep-2020, 12:15

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338699927_bfba944298_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jGfZHr)4x5 Fuji HRU Mic-X 8 minutes (https://flic.kr/p/2jGfZHr) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This is decreasing exposure one stop as shown above, but increasing dev time from five to eight minutes. My wife prefers this version.
So this one EI 25 harder development

seezee

13-Sep-2020, 19:20

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50338699927_bfba944298_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jGfZHr)

I'm with you — the 1st one is better.

Brianr

13-Sep-2020, 19:53

Me too, the first one.

John Earley

14-Sep-2020, 17:47

Me three. First one.

Daniel Unkefer

17-Sep-2020, 12:43

Thanks for your opinions, Guys!

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50353287526_443d9d4857_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jHxL6L)Loading Up The Truck Fuji XRay (https://flic.kr/p/2jHxL6L) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

OK HR-U is going to work for me in the larger formats. So I am loading up the truck as I have no idea how long it is going to be available.

400 8x10 sheets of HR-U plus the hundred I already have. Hopefully a lifetime supply. While I was at it I grabbed a hundred sheets of RX-N, which is the blue two sided high speed Fuji XRay film.

Great fun ahead I predict. I loaded four 4x5 Graphmatics, and four 2x3 Graphmatics, with HR-U this morning.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50353034587_bded0d99f0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jHwsUK)Kodak Min-R Single Sided Mammography 18x24cm (https://flic.kr/p/2jHwsUK) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This is single sided 18x24cm Mammography XRay I found a while back. I do have one Sinar Norma 18x24 film holder, so this will make nice sized contact prints.

The big bonus is that I can cut it into four 9x12cm to fit my European holders and cameras.

25 cents a sheet for single sided 18x24. Looks like these came from France.

Jim Noel

17-Sep-2020, 13:48

I am a great believer in having plenty of film. I am 91, and my 8x10 and 5x12 stock was down to 400 and 500 sheets respectively,so I took advantage of the Ilford ULF order to stock up, as well as a final source of 5x12 dental film.. I told my wife I want to die with only one sheet of film left.

Tin Can

17-Sep-2020, 14:58

Jim, you win!

I don't know how much film I have

a lot is old

Jim Noel

17-Sep-2020, 19:17

Not a contest, just a statement of resources. I have never believed in running out of film.
Jim

Philippe Grunchec

18-Sep-2020, 02:19

/url]Kodak Min-R Single Sided Mammography 18x24cm (https://flic.kr/p/2jHwsUK) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

This is single sided 18x24cm Mammography XRay I found a while back. I do have one Sinar Norma 18x24 film holder, so this will make nice sized contact prints.

The big bonus is that I can cut it into four 9x12cm to fit my European holders and cameras.

25 cents a sheet for single sided 18x24. Looks like these came from France.

Yes, here in Europe we only can get 18x24cm XRay films (single or doubled coated), but I'd like to buy them in 8x10": is there in the US a shop that would accept to ship to France?

Tin Can

18-Sep-2020, 04:31

Yes Jim, I used a colloquialism, my mistake

What I should have written is you are prepared, as in 'Be Prepared' as meant by Robert Baden-Powell (https://blog.scoutingmagazine.org/2017/05/08/be-prepared-scout-motto-origin/#:~:text=In%201907%2C%20Baden%2DPowell%2C,the%20Scout%20motto%3A%20Be%20Prepared.&text=In%20Scouting%20for%20Boys%2C%20Baden,body%20to%20do%20your%20duty.%E2%80%9D)

I try to be prepared for anything

Not a contest, just a statement of resources. I have never believed in running out of film.
Jim

Jim Noel

18-Sep-2020, 07:21

Yes Jim, I used a colloquialism, my mistake

What I should have written is you are prepared, as in 'Be Prepared' as meant by Robert Baden-Powell (https://blog.scoutingmagazine.org/2017/05/08/be-prepared-scout-motto-origin/#:~:text=In%201907%2C%20Baden%2DPowell%2C,the%20Scout%20motto%3A%20Be%20Prepared.&text=In%20Scouting%20for%20Boys%2C%20Baden,body%20to%20do%20your%20duty.%E2%80%9D)

I try to be prepared for anything

Not taken as a criticism, or anything but friends communicating. Have a great day!

Ray Van Nes

18-Sep-2020, 07:44

Bravo!

j.e.simmons

19-Sep-2020, 03:53

Philippe
Check with zzmedical.com

Philippe Grunchec

19-Sep-2020, 13:40

Philippe
Check with zzmedical.com

"It looks like you were looking at Fuji film and we are not allowed by Fuji to ship that outside of the United States." is the answer I got from Kevin Zabel, zzmedical.com

Tin Can

19-Sep-2020, 14:11

Politics

"It looks like you were looking at Fuji film and we are not allowed by Fuji to ship that outside of the United States." is the answer I got from Kevin Zabel, zzmedical.com

Kiwi7475

19-Sep-2020, 14:52

Does anyone have experience with HR-U developed with Diafine? I’m going to try this combo but was wandering what others may have found or what a starting equivalent ISO would be given that this developer provides a significant speed gain.

Daniel Unkefer

20-Sep-2020, 07:10

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50361006846_2e04b5cc7c_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jJejMu)HRU test Norma Handy Sinarsix MicX (https://flic.kr/p/2jJejMu) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Nothing artistic but a superwide view off of my back deck, on a VERY windy clear sun key day.

Fuji 4x5 HRU XRay test key day Sinar 4x5 Norma Handy 65mm F8 chrome Schneider Super Angulon lens, with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Norma Sinarsix TTL meter F11 reads green grass EV 7 2/3 equates to 1/15 at F11. Very windy day lots of tree movement. Camera mounted on a Star D tripod to allow slower shutter speeds. Microdol-X straight replenished 12 mins at ambient. Development by inspection red safelight Omega DII Omegalite diffusion head Arista #2 RC paper mulitgrade dev Scratches! Used Paterson trays, should have used smooth Cesco trays. This is a wide scale subject, Microdol-X has done a pretty good job once again :)

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50299452847_3418a21bf0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jCMQVD)Sinar Norma Handy w TTL Sinarsix metering (https://flic.kr/p/2jCMQVD) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Daniel Unkefer

21-Sep-2020, 09:56

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368290156_ed67d711f3_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jJSDRN)HRU Pulso Test 210 Componon f22 12 pops MicX (https://flic.kr/p/2jJSDRN) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Testing my new Broncolor Pulso C171 375 WS Monolight with restored 80x80cm Pulso Softbox about three feet right. Silver Gold reflector on left. Fuji HRU XRay film 4x5 Sinar Norma 180mm chrome Componon Norma Shutter Mic-X replenished straight developr in a flat bottomed Cesco tray. Lisco 4x5 film holder

F22 I popped the strobe twelve times to build up the density
The Grey canvas background I painted myself; Just recently put it back up

Daniel Unkefer

21-Sep-2020, 10:06

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50368157652_6dbb0920d0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jJRYtf)HRU test 2 Norma Handy Sinarsix MicX (https://flic.kr/p/2jJRYtf) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Same scene as previously but one stop additional exposure
EI of 25 1/8 F11 Key Day Center Filter Seems to have more highlight and shadow detail

Negative suffered some damage as film was mangled in the Graphmatic sheet holder. I'm switching to regular sheet film holders.

Daniel Unkefer

22-Sep-2020, 11:33

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50371891118_9c12373511_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKc7im)MINR XRay Test 1 210mm Componon F22 Two Pops C171 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKc7im) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

18x24cm Kodak MIN-R Mammography film cut into 4x5s. Sinar Norma Broncolor C171 with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. Two strobe pops with Sinar Norma Shutter, multiple pops are no problem. Schneider chrome Componon lens at F22. Lisco Regal 4x5 film holder

Legacy Mic-X film dev 8 mins at 68F Aristo 8x10 #2 RC print Multigrade dev

This is fun :)

Daniel Unkefer

24-Sep-2020, 07:03

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50378155288_8c1f8e44b4_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKKdqh)HRU Makiflex Std Mic-X 240 f4.5 Tele-Arton (https://flic.kr/p/2jKKdqh) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Plaubel Makiflex Standard camera 240mm F5.5 chrome barrel mount Schneider Tele-Arton at F22. One pop of Broncolor Pulso C171 monolight strobe with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. No fill.

8x10 Fuji HR-U XRay film cut into 4x5s straight Microdol-X replenished in a tray development by inspection under custom red light. 4x5 Lisco Regal holder.

8x10 RC Aristo #2 Multigrade dev Omega DII with diffusion Omegalite head.

jmdavis

24-Sep-2020, 07:28

What kind of times are you getting with the Microdol-X on average? When do you first examine the negative?

Daniel Unkefer

24-Sep-2020, 07:42

What kind of times are you getting with the Microdol-X on average? When do you first examine the negative?

My safelights are very very safe and I watch the films as soon as they go in the dev. Yesterday with HR-U the image came up to the point I could see something after three minutes.

I set my time to eight minutes each time as a start, sometimes I pull them. With these Makiflex negs ^^^ I left 'em for twelve minutes and they look pretty good.

If overexposed these films seem to come up quicker? I have had some come up in two minutes.

Daniel Unkefer

24-Sep-2020, 07:51

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50376431731_93523e2a72_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAo4M)HRU Fixing Step Dental Clips 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAo4M) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I've decided to use these Dental Clips I bought on Ebay, to hold down two sheets in the Cesco flat bottomed trays, and keep them off the bottom, and keeping them from moving around (which scratches!)

Here two sheets are in the TD4 Fix

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50376433896_a8e48dc3e5_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAoH7)HRU Wash Step Dental Clips 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAoH7) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Here the two sheets are moving into the wash tray. This has caused a lot of grief, if a sheet touches ANYTHING it is scratched with HRU.

The sheets are well distanced, off the bottom, and can get a decent wash with getting scratched.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50375746378_8b31be3f5e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKwSkm)HRU Dry Step Dental Clips 3 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKwSkm) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

When I go to the dry step, I move both clips to opposite ends. So the water can drain off properly.

I have made three runs this way, with only one scratch (my fault).

Getting perfect sheets with HRU no defects is not an easy matter. So far I can see no reason to continue tray processing in thos way

Tin Can

24-Sep-2020, 08:01

I thought that is single side film?

How does it scratch face up?

Daniel Unkefer

24-Sep-2020, 08:05

I have HR-U which is double sided.

I also have Kodak MIN-R which is single sided. Both are prone to scratching.

I'm doing two 4x5 sheets at a time and they tend to move around in the tray. If they touch ANYTHING they will scratch!

The clips keep them from floating around and banging into each other, especially in the wash tray

If I am diligent I get zero scratches. 5x7 I would go single sheets in a tray, that is a different animal.

Tin Can

24-Sep-2020, 08:09

Yes, all 2X is delicate, yet I have processed ULF 2X by hand unscratched up to 14X36"

Daniel Unkefer

24-Sep-2020, 08:16

With bigger sheets I will do one at a time in the Cesco trays. Still while being washed they can easily scratch

Another possibility for me is deep tanks, I have 3F 8x10 3.5 gals but have not set them up yet

I bought SS rods from McMaster Carr and the dental clips will probably work good, I have put one together. But right now I am using the trays

Tin Can

24-Sep-2020, 08:41

the few big sheets I did with 2 clips one on each end using a big Cesco with 2" of PQ under safelight

See-saw dipping, reusing the middle center water stop tray for wash also

12 minutes to done

They were enlarged positives, which I put in a window box with backlight, so viewable only at night

Now I want to make a simple Pano camera using 2 sheets

skuuterboy

29-Sep-2020, 07:10

I have been purchasing Carestream x-ray film from Z&Z Medical for the past 10 years but they no longer carry it. Can anyone recommend an alternative source for Carestream X-ray films in 8x10?

Tin Can

29-Sep-2020, 07:32

All Traditional wet process X-Ray medical film is going away fast

Some Industrial film may remain

Ektascan is gone

2X aka double sided is still sold at ZZ Like this (https://www.zzmedical.com/8x10-in-fuji-x-ray-film.html)

I would try this next (https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/fuji-um-ma-mammography-x-ray-film.html)

some out of date films may be on eBay

Jim Noel

29-Sep-2020, 09:09

It may be time to put a padlock on my film freezer.

Tin Can

29-Sep-2020, 09:28

My 14X17 Ektascan does not fit!

The 8X10 does

It's all fine for the duration

It may be time to put a padlock on my film freezer.

oakranch

29-Sep-2020, 12:43

I am just getting started with x-ray film and would like very much if someone could give me some basic starting out information. I fully realize that there is everything I could every wish to know somewhere in these 500+ pages but I will be damned If I can find it. The search tool seem useless to me, or maybe I'M just stupid.
I have some D23 developer coming, and some fixer but I don't have a baseline from which to start in the darkroom. I have read a bunch of pages and there are as many ways of going at it. I just need somewhere to start. I'm happy to experiment from there. Is anyone willing to do that please? I don't even know what I have left out of this post to make it understandable. Thank you in advance for any shred of help.

Tin Can

29-Sep-2020, 12:46

Expose at 40 asa, develop and fix like any other film

D23 and any fixer works fine

oakranch

29-Sep-2020, 12:51

Thank you very much. How much would I dilute the developer to start with so that I would have time to watch it work and soften contrast a little?

Tin Can

29-Sep-2020, 12:58

I have not used D23 yet, but plan to

I use Rodinol 1/100 at 70f 7 minutes under dim red safe light, very gentle agitation

stop is plain water 30 seconds

Fix for twice clearing time, which you can see happening

adjust developing time as you see fit

wash in low flow water for 10 minutes, hang by corner to dry

Jim Noel

29-Sep-2020, 13:21

I use it straight.

Tin Can

29-Sep-2020, 13:25

Ken Lee, a member here has very good advice on film and paper,

Here is his D23 dissertation (http://www.kennethleegallery.com/html/tech/D-23.php)

oakranch

29-Sep-2020, 14:10

Thank you all. I know I have seen a page in this massive collection talking about using D23 diluted to ease the contrast but I don't recall the ratio nor can I find the page again.

Tin Can

29-Sep-2020, 14:26

Read the Ken Lee link he fully describes it

Thank you all. I know I have seen a page in this massive collection talking about using D23 diluted to ease the contrast but I don't recall the ratio nor can I find the page again.

michael_wi

29-Sep-2020, 20:23

From about a thousand messages ago:

I made a spreadsheet culled from APUG, here, blogs, flickr, and google searches. It is a few years out of date. Meant to share this a long time ago but life gets in the way sometimes.

Find on my google docs - https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1YFPM2J6ADKgZDTbj8MYcyuB5BU1mKmNuWobB6Zp2GlQ/edit?usp=sharing
It is set to anyone can edit.

EDIT:
It contains 4 tabs
1) name, EI/ISO ratings, sensitivity types, light exposed under (when given or obvious), and development info.
2) Film names, types, and box thumbs in an "equivalent" table. Discontinued films are also included
3) Notes, DIY developers with credit, Andrew O'Neil's X-Ray Film Reciprocity Effect chart (2010)
4) ANSI standard cut film sizes. in, mm, min/nom/max for 2" x 3" to 12" x 20" and 9cm x 12cm to 24cm x 30cm

ericantonio

30-Sep-2020, 14:49

Expose at 40 asa, develop and fix like any other film

D23 and any fixer works fine

I came to this thread to look for this. Yep, 500+ pages is a lot to go through and forum software isn't great for searching.

I am planning on doing some PT/PD prints this year and read that x-ray film is great for that cause of the high contrast it produces. And seems a bit more economical for contact printing.

Jim Noel

30-Sep-2020, 15:35

I came to this thread to look for this. Yep, 500+ pages is a lot to go through and forum software isn't great for searching.

I am planning on doing some PT/PD prints this year and read that x-ray film is great for that cause of the high contrast it produces. And seems a bit more economical for contact printing.

Exposure is dependent on your film, your latitude, weather and the time of day. In San diego on a nice day I use an EI of 100 from 2 hours after sunrise until an hour prior to sunset. Before and after these times I drop the EI to 25-40 dependent on the amount of red in the light. This can be determined by bouncing the light off a CD which acts like a prism and allows one to see the full available spectrum. On cloudy days ther Ei may drop as low as 10-12. Experience is the basis of exposure with these films on other than nice days. I have been using Orthochromatic films since the 1930's which was well before I Got an exposure meter.
Films - Carestream EB/RA and Fuji HRU.Developed in whatever seems handy that day, always by inspection.

ericantonio

30-Sep-2020, 16:03

Exposure is dependent on your film, your latitude, weather and the time of day. In San diego on a nice day I use an EI of 100 from 2 hours after sunrise until an hour prior to sunset. Before and after these times I drop the EI to 25-40 dependent on the amount of red in the light. This can be determined by bouncing the light off a CD which acts like a prism and allows one to see the full available spectrum. On cloudy days ther Ei may drop as low as 10-12. Experience is the basis of exposure with these films on other than nice days. I have been using Orthochromatic films since the 1930's which was well before I Got an exposure meter.
Films - Carestream EB/RA and Fuji HRU.Developed in whatever seems handy that day, always by inspection.

Woop! That is some good info. And when you mean latitude, like as in longitude/latitude right? I'm in SoCal too.

"always by inspection". I did that for a living in NYC. 3 of us in NYC did it commercially. At the time, nobody was doing commercial B&W with inspection. Green light and footswitch all the way!

j.e.simmons

1-Oct-2020, 03:38

Jim, do you inspect with a brief green light or with the normal red safelight?

Jim Noel

1-Oct-2020, 09:38

Jim, do you inspect with a brief green light or with the normal red safelight?

Red, because the film has no sensitivity to red, but some to green.

jmdavis

1-Oct-2020, 10:38

Jim, Another inspection question do you use reflection or transmission inspection? I learned normal inspection from Michael Smith and Paula Chamlee primarily based on reflection, but occasionally using the green light as a back light. I'm doing my Fuji mammo film now using a SP-810 tray and opening it up for the first time at 5 minutes, I worry about someone not nocking and entering the communal darkroom. Do you use trays, hangers, or something else?

Jim Noel

1-Oct-2020, 11:31

I usually use trays. Inspection is by reflection off the reverse side looking primarily for good density in the highlights . The shadows are extremely difficult to see, especially in my 90's.

jmdavis

1-Oct-2020, 12:34

I usually use trays. Inspection is by reflection off the reverse side looking primarily for good density in the highlights . The shadows are extremely difficult to see, especially in my 90's.

My experience is that shadows are sometimes hard to see in your 40's and 50's or at least they were/are for me. Thanks for the info.

ericantonio

1-Oct-2020, 13:52

I'm ready to try it out, looks like Fuji has a new improved version called the:

Fuji Super HR-T Medium Speed Green 8x10 X-Ray Film

Does anyone know if this will fit an 8x10 holder with no cutting?

I am gearing up on some PT/PD prints this fall, even changing my old homemade Lightbox into LED. Bostick Sullivan emailed me and said to make sure I have about 2+ stops over on regular film.

Since what I've been reading about x-ray film, its nice and contrasty so would like to try it out without breaking the piggy.

Jim Noel

1-Oct-2020, 14:49

It will fit if it is 20.3 cm x 25.4 cm. You may have to buy larger nd cut down.

Tin Can

1-Oct-2020, 14:50

Yes it should fit any normal film holder

if you like it, stock up as I think it's fast disappearing in NA

Tin Can

1-Oct-2020, 14:53

https://www.zzmedical.com/analog-x-ray-supplies/x-ray-film/fuji-x-ray-film/8x10-in-fuji-x-ray-film.html

ericantonio

2-Oct-2020, 08:44

Yes it should fit any normal film holder

if you like it, stock up as I think it's fast disappearing in NA

Ohhh? I did notice that my dentists went from film to digital. And when I got xrays for a very bad sprain wrist, it was digital as well. Kinda neat that you can see your cavities almost as soon as he takes an xray of it instead of waiting.

Will have to check it out.

Today is "build a new UV LED box day". Ripped out the old UV black lights flourescents. That thing go SO HOT I had to put foil in the box, and a small fan when I turned it on.

senderoaburrido

3-Oct-2020, 15:21

208286

Tin Can

3-Oct-2020, 15:25

Like!

208286

senderoaburrido

4-Oct-2020, 12:28

208293
208294
208295

Here's some more work. This is all Fujifilm x-ray, 7 1/2 minutes in Rodinal with constant agitation.

Kiwi7475

4-Oct-2020, 12:39

208293
208294
208295

Here's some more work. This is all Fujifilm x-ray, 7 1/2 minutes in Rodinal with constant agitation.

Very nice. What do you think makes the skin take this almost metallic look?

senderoaburrido

11-Oct-2020, 10:42

very nice. What do you think makes the skin take this almost metallic look?
uv.
208510
208511
208512

Kiwi7475

11-Oct-2020, 10:47

uv.
208510
208511
208512

You mean you use UV lighting for the subjects?

Daniel Unkefer

13-Oct-2020, 07:49

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50470038238_c8636493da_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jTS925)HRU Filter test 1 YG 103mm Norma (https://flic.kr/p/2jTS925) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Procession of Clouds Filter Test #1

Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 2/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 2/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F

Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade developer

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50470060843_24001c7bc5_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jTSfJP)HRU Filter test 2 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma (https://flic.kr/p/2jTSfJP) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Procession of Clouds Filter Test #2

Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 1/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 1/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F

Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade developer

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50470768906_375ae8cac8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jTVTdN)HRU Filter test 3 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma (https://flic.kr/p/2jTVTdN) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Procession of Clouds Filter Test #3

Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 1/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 1/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F

Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade developer

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50470083408_4527099208_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jTSnrS)HRU Filter test 4 Yellow Dark 103mm Norma (https://flic.kr/p/2jTSnrS) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Procession of Clouds Filter Test #4

Sinar Norma Handy tripod mounted, 65mm F8 Super Angulon with Schneider 65mm F8 Center Filter. Fuji HRU XRay film 8x10 cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back. EV 8 1/3 ZIII Sinar Norma 103mm Yellow Green Glass Disc. F22 1/3 at 1 second EI 50. Tray developed by inspection under red safelight straight Microdol-X 12 minutes at 68F

Arista 8x10 RC print Omega DII Omegalite Diffusion Head Multigrade develope

ericantonio

13-Oct-2020, 09:45

208293
208294
208295

Here's some more work. This is all Fujifilm x-ray, 7 1/2 minutes in Rodinal with constant agitation.

Love these. Funny was researching xray film again today.
Did you do the tray processing? I can't seem to find flat bottom trays unless maybe I get some bain maries from the kitchen store. My PT/PD kit coming in today.

senderoaburrido

14-Oct-2020, 15:14

Love these. Funny was researching xray film again today.
Did you do the tray processing? I can't seem to find flat bottom trays unless maybe I get some bain maries from the kitchen store. My PT/PD kit coming in today.

I use the SP445. The marks it leaves at the edges of my negatives are terrible. Tray dev would always leave scratches everywhere. I'd prefer to use something like the Jobo 3010. Currently I don't have the money for it. Would like to try selling some pictures, unsure if anybody'd buy this stuff in prints.

208586

Bob Wagner

15-Oct-2020, 05:08

I have had very good success with a piece of plexiglass cut to fit the bottom of my trays. I labeled them with a sharpie so that they get used in the same chemical every time, and with the same side up. I wash them after each use and squeegee them off so they don't get water spots, although that probably wouldn't matter. I have found that too large a tray is not a good idea. YMMV

Daniel Unkefer

15-Oct-2020, 05:30

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50376431731_93523e2a72_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAo4M)HRU Fixing Step Dental Clips 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAo4M) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50376433896_a8e48dc3e5_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAoH7)HRU Wash Step Dental Clips 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKAoH7) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

The white smooth Cesco trays are available in all sizes I easily bought mine from B&H. These are 8x10 and I also bought 5x7s.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/13156-REG/Cescolite_CL810T_Heavy_Weight_Plastic_Developing_Tray.html

In the four posted directly above by me ^^^ absolutely no scratches anywhere, I use the dental clips I got on Ebay. It keeps the 4x5 sheets (I do two at a time) from sliding around in the tray, and keeps the sheets off the bottom of the tray. I use Paterson print forceps to carefully move the sheets between trays. If I am not diligent there will be scratches! I have found that ANY contact with ANYTHING will cause a scratch. The emulsion is super thin and comes off if there is ANY contact. I can scrape it off with my fingernail.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/12-DENTAL-X-RAY-FILM-HANGER-SINGLE-CLIP-FOR-X-RAY-FILM/123060185490?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50375746378_8b31be3f5e_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKwSkm)HRU Dry Step Dental Clips 3 (https://flic.kr/p/2jKwSkm) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

After the photoflo, I CAREFULLY move the dental clips to the corners of the sheets, so that the water drains off as it should.

This method works and I have ZERO scratched film if I am super careful. The key is not to touch it at all while it is wet.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50378155288_8c1f8e44b4_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jKKdqh)HRU Makiflex Std Mic-X 240 f4.5 Tele-Arton (https://flic.kr/p/2jKKdqh) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Plaubel Makiflex Standard camera 240mm F5.5 chrome barrel mount Schneider Tele-Arton at F22. One pop of Broncolor Pulso C171 monolight strobe with Broncolor Pulso Beauty Dish. No fill. 8x10 Fuji HR-U XRay film cut into 4x5s straight Microdol-X replenished in a tray development by inspection under custom red light. 4x5 Lisco Regal holder. 8x10 RC Aristo #2 Multigrade dev Omega DII with diffusion Omegalite head.

seezee

15-Oct-2020, 07:42

I bet those subdermal freckles are nearly invisible to the naked eye. That's one of the things I love about this film.

208586[/QUOTE]

Paul Kinzer

15-Oct-2020, 13:18

Hey folks,

I've been away from this forum for a long time (a year?) because life got in the way. But I'm still planning to build a 14x17 camera, with the intent of using x-ray film. I have three lenses, a shutter I made, bellows, and all the material to make the camera itself. I hope to make the thing over the winter, and am actually putting off cleaning/re-arranging my workshop by writing this post.

Here's my question: Since I last visited, has there been any consensus on a particularly good film -- or few films -- to use, which is available in 14x17? I mean, like some which are less prone to scratching, for example. Or, short of recommendations for particular films, maybe updated info on some, like details on film speed, etc.

I read the entire thread last year, looking for all the information I could find. At the time, I saw lots of folks ask questions, and some folks would respond 'read the thread'. I plan to do that, actually, once winter hits Wisconsin. But for now, I'd like some specific pointers. I'm planning to experiment with my 5x7 camera, and would like to order some film for it that I can then upgrade to once I finish the 14x17.

Thanks!

Tin Can

15-Oct-2020, 13:36

The best X-Ray film was single sided Kodak Ektascan, which was available in 14X17 and 8X10 only

No longer available from any source I know

All still available X-Ray is very similar, green, blue, double speed means nothing for us. It is all double sided.

There is a bit of Mammo film left, but only metric sizes as far as I know

Be careful what you buy and make sure it is wet process and not DRY, or digital or anything else

Hey folks,

I've been away from this forum for a long time (a year?) because life got in the way. But I'm still planning to build a 14x17 camera, with the intent of using x-ray film. I have three lenses, a shutter I made, bellows, and all the material to make the camera itself. I hope to make the thing over the winter, and am actually putting off cleaning/re-arranging my workshop by writing this post.

Here's my question: Since I last visited, has there been any consensus on a particularly good film -- or few films -- to use, which is available in 14x17? I mean, like some which are less prone to scratching, for example. Or, short of recommendations for particular films, maybe updated info on some, like details on film speed, etc.

I read the entire thread last year, looking for all the information I could find. At the time, I saw lots of folks ask questions, and some folks would respond 'read the thread'. I plan to do that, actually, once winter hits Wisconsin. But for now, I'd like some specific pointers. I'm planning to experiment with my 5x7 camera, and would like to order some film for it that I can then upgrade to once I finish the 14x17.

Thanks!

Jim Noel

15-Oct-2020, 14:20

Best to get film in hand while you can. It all appears on the slippery slope to oblivion.

Daniel Unkefer

15-Oct-2020, 15:00

I've had good luck getting my film from these Guys:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuji-Green-HR-U-X-ray-Film-14x17-inch-100-sheets-box/324326298640?hash=item4b835a9410:g:9rAAAOSwjJZfgG3t

They charge only exact shipping per weight

Tin Can

15-Oct-2020, 15:10

Mee Too Jim, I will be buying a case of 500 8X10 sheets on payday

I prefer cases as then it comes in another box

I once bought 2 boxes of 14X17 which weigh a lot, one box failed, but the inner black bag held the disaster of lightstruck at bay

For the record, I have been warning of the disappearance of X-Ray for at least a year

on eBay I see long expired left over

Best to get film in hand while you can. It all appears on the slippery slope to oblivion.

Paul Kinzer

15-Oct-2020, 15:36

O, man; I'm glad to have checked back now! I do see, after looking around the various sources I found last year, that the pickings definitely seem slimmer than they were a year ago. I do see some unexpired stuff still being sold, but in many fewer sizes (I haven't seen any 5x7 yet), and fewer film choices, too.

Speaking of expired, how old would it be worth buying, if I find some that's been stored at room temperature or better?

Tin Can

15-Oct-2020, 15:47

Nobody knows if any film has been stored correctly or gone bad, life is a gamble

but that's why I only buy from my normal sources

Which are ZZ Medical for X-Ray and B&H for most other film or Freestyle for stuff B&H doesn't have

any of them will support their products

but I have shot 120 year old glass plates

O, man; I'm glad to have checked back now! I do see, after looking around the various sources I found last year, that the pickings definitely seem slimmer than they were a year ago. I do see some unexpired stuff still being sold, but in many fewer sizes (I haven't seen any 5x7 yet), and fewer film choices, too.

Speaking of expired, how old would it be worth buying, if I find some that's been stored at room temperature or better?

Paul Kinzer

15-Oct-2020, 17:01

Thanks, good points!

It's off-topic, but I'd like to know more about those glass plates sometime. And, though it's been a long time, I still really appreciate your clear, generous help.

Brianr

15-Oct-2020, 22:38

A 5x7 from my ROC Kenwood. Fuji HRU. Rodinol 1:25 for 4 minutes, tank developed. Shot at ISO 100.
208624

Philippe Grunchec

16-Oct-2020, 03:09

A 5x7 from my ROC Kenwood. Fuji HRU. Rodinol 1:25 for 4 minutes, tank developed. Shot at ISO 100.
208624

These notches on Fuji HRU?

Tin Can

16-Oct-2020, 05:01

I don't know as I never bought Fuji X-Ray, yet planning to

I do know KODAK Ektascan has one similar notch as it is single sided

Now that Fuji HRU maybe cut down to 5X7 and contain notches, but unlikely as all the HRU I see is double sided

But back to my experience with KODAK X-Ray film, it all has round corners which MAY BE an industry standard to lessen scratches when handling

While researching just now I found more metric Mammo at good prices

Fuji UM-MA Mammography 24x30cm Film

A 5x7 from my ROC Kenwood. Fuji HRU. Rodinol 1:25 for 4 minutes, tank developed. Shot at ISO 100.
208624

Brianr

16-Oct-2020, 06:33

These notches on Fuji HRU? it doesn’t, someone put those notches in one of the film holders I have. 208625

Brianr

16-Oct-2020, 06:37

I made some tanks with my 3D printer for developing my 5x7 negatives with. They only fit one at a time and take about 250ml to fill.

208626

Tin Can

16-Oct-2020, 06:47

Nice tanks!

I made some tanks with my 3D printer for developing my 5x7 negatives with. They only fit one at a time and take about 250ml to fill.

208626

Tin Can

16-Oct-2020, 08:33

Listening to live webinar discussion on X-ray diffraction image of B DNA and who stole what from who, Rosalind Franklin features prominently as early pioneer

A 100 year story with DNA X-Ray image here (http://cen.xraycrystals.org/dna.html)

Daniel Unkefer

18-Oct-2020, 11:07

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50502606137_528a33eff8_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jWK4jz)Auto Maki no 2 150 2.8 Xenotar HRU 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2jWK4jz) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer

senderoaburrido

18-Oct-2020, 17:29

208738

Daniel Unkefer

19-Oct-2020, 06:49

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50504890938_06e07a11c9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jWWLvG)Auto Maki no 2 180 2.8 Xenotar HRU 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2jWWLvG) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50504910778_07957f10f5_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jWWSpL)Auto Maki no 2 180 2.8 Xenotar HRU 3 (https://flic.kr/p/2jWWSpL) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer

Daniel Unkefer

19-Oct-2020, 06:52

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50505651966_0a0362db4a_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1EJS)Auto Maki no 2 270 4.8 Tele Arton HRU 4 (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1EJS) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Automatic Makiflex #2 270mm F4.8 Tele-Arton Makiflex Auto Iris 1/30 F11 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 35 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50505677496_4ce8b067b9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1Nk3)Auto Maki no 2 150 2.8 Xenotar HRU 5 (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1Nk3) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Automatic Makiflex #2 150mm F2.8 Xenotar wide-open 1/15 Fuji 8x10 XRay HRU cut down to 4x5 in Graphmatic back StarD tripod. Development 12 minutes 60F straight Mic-X replenished by inspection of shadow values by deep red safelight. 8x10 Arista #2 RC Omega DII 180 Rodagon f22 50 seconds Omegalite diffusion head Multigrade developer

Tin Can

19-Oct-2020, 07:11

Interesting!

It looks best on a monitor, and not my tiny phone where I first saw it

208738

Paul Kinzer

19-Oct-2020, 19:09

seezee

20-Oct-2020, 08:10

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50505677496_4ce8b067b9_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1Nk3)Auto Maki no 2 150 2.8 Xenotar HRU 5 (https://flic.kr/p/2jX1Nk3) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Is that a Chihuly sculpture among the plants?

Daniel Unkefer

20-Oct-2020, 08:37

Is that a Chihuly sculpture among the plants?

Seezee,

Yep It's Chihuly sculptures at the Franklin Conservatory in Columbus, Ohio.

See here:

https://www.fpconservatory.org/exhibitions/chihuly-collection/

senderoaburrido

28-Oct-2020, 22:01

209015
209016

Tin Can

29-Oct-2020, 04:07

Very interesting

Do you care to share your technique

209015
209016

senderoaburrido

29-Oct-2020, 11:47

I put four layers of gelatin on her face, in thin coats.

Tin Can

29-Oct-2020, 12:27

Thank you

Karsh applied some sort of grease to men

Daniel Unkefer

30-Oct-2020, 06:25

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50547233136_f496b269a7_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k1FMnA)Ashton Pond Norma Handy HRU Mic-X (https://flic.kr/p/2k1FMnA) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Ashton Pond Columbus Ohio Sinar Norma Handy 4x5 Fuji HR-U XRay 65mm F8 at F22 Schneider CF + Sinar Norma Dark Yellow 103mm Glass Disk 1 sec at F22 Legacy Mic-X replenished stock in tray 18 mins at 62F Arista #2 RC 4x 8x10 Multigrade dev

David Schaller

30-Oct-2020, 06:57

This is Carestream 8x10 single-sided, developed in Pyrocat HD 1:1:200 for 8 minutes in a tray. The exposure was 37 minutes! Sorry for the large size.

https://i.imgur.com/FLrGzjs.jpg

Daniel Unkefer

30-Oct-2020, 22:54

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50549038488_b5881ae3bc_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k1R33m)Ashton Pond Norma Handy HRU Mic-X 2 (https://flic.kr/p/2k1R33m) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Ashton Pond Columbus Ohio Sinar Norma Handy 4x5 Fuji HR-U XRay 65mm F8 at F22 Schneider CF + Sinar Norma Dark Yellow 103mm Glass Disk 1 sec at F22 Legacy Mic-X replenished stock in tray 18 mins at 62F Arista #2 RC 4x 8x10 Multigrade dev

seezee

31-Oct-2020, 08:54

This is Carestream 8x10 single-sided, developed in Pyrocat HD 1:1:200 for 8 minutes in a tray. The exposure was 37 minutes! Sorry for the large size.

Dang! What was your ƒ-stop?

David Schaller

31-Oct-2020, 15:56

Dang! What was your ƒ-stop?
I used f45, and it would have been better to have used f64! But that would have been 75 minutes. The bellows extension factor was 5.75, I guessed on the reciprocity correction, and the filter factor was another stop. I tiptoed away, and went in the house to stay warm.

ericantonio

31-Oct-2020, 16:44

This is Carestream 8x10 single-sided, developed in Pyrocat HD 1:1:200 for 8 minutes in a tray. The exposure was 37 minutes! Sorry for the large size.

That is a long exposure!!

Where are you guys getting this stuff (Carestream 8x10 single-sided)? My PHD in Googling skills only gets me to a case of this stuff.

Kiwi7475

31-Oct-2020, 18:08

That is a long exposure!!

Where are you guys getting this stuff (Carestream 8x10 single-sided)? My PHD in Googling skills only gets me to a case of this stuff.

Probably from their freezers... It hasn’t been available that I know of for a few months now.... very sad.

ericantonio

31-Oct-2020, 22:41

Probably from their freezers... It hasn’t been available that I know of for a few months now.... very sad.

Oh bummer

David Schaller

1-Nov-2020, 04:36

That is a long exposure!!

Where are you guys getting this stuff (Carestream 8x10 single-sided)? My PHD in Googling skills only gets me to a case of this stuff.

I stocked up last winter, and have been working it out this year.

Tin Can

1-Nov-2020, 06:30

Ditto

All wet film process X-Ray film is still fast disappearing

I monitor my very reliable source

14X36" is in short supply and prices have gone way up

I don't study eBay trending on anything

2X works well too, but don't wait for Godot (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Waiting_for_Godot)

I stocked up last winter, and have been working it out this year.

Daniel Unkefer

1-Nov-2020, 08:32

Prices seem to be going up and the MIN-R is old but can be found here and there

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50353034587_bded0d99f0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jHwsUK)Kodak Min-R Single Sided Mammography 18x24cm (https://flic.kr/p/2jHwsUK) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carestream-Kodak-mammography-Medical-X-Ray-Film-Min-R-2000-Plus-18-x-24-2021-09/123588124879?hash=item1cc66d20cf:g:BzIAAOSwZ2FcNqZb

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50353287526_443d9d4857_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2jHxL6L)Loading Up The Truck Fuji XRay (https://flic.kr/p/2jHxL6L) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

I paid $28/box for this HR-U a couple of months ago but now it's $32 But it's still available! But for how long????

Kiwi7475

1-Nov-2020, 09:01

Yup the Fuji HRU may disappear soon ... or not... Fuji is so unpredictable...

I guess when everything goes, as long as we can source bromides, nitrates, or dichromates we can at least keep shooting...

Peter De Smidt

1-Nov-2020, 10:07

I just bought 500 sheet of the HR-U. Guess I'll have to come up with a good development system! I'll start with hangers.... I would've bought another 500, but this year...........

Tin Can

2-Nov-2020, 05:14

I just ordered more 7X17

It works in my 7X17 box and cuts down to 5X7 nicely

Tin Can

2-Nov-2020, 11:22

Added 2-100 sheet boxes of Fuji UM-MA Mammography X-Ray Film 18X24cm in date for $65 per

Daniel Unkefer

4-Nov-2020, 08:11

This morning I am breaking down a gallon of Freestyle Legacy Pro Mic-X, into three litres of Mic-X replenisher, which will go into three one litre brown glass bottles. All my glass bottles come from Photographer's Formulary and I have many extra at this point. My present stock Mic-X is from June 2020, and in a brown one gallon bottle will last for many years. My first gallon lasted three and a half years. finally dumped it but didn't really want to. About as economical a developer as you can get at it lasts about forever and gets better as it "seasons".

Here is the stuff for XRay:

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/749710-LegacyPro-Mic-X-Film-Developer-(Makes-1-Gallon)

Kodak has great instructions to make Microdol-X Replenisher, I am listing the steps here it is easy to do.

1. Start with three quarts of 100F water
2. Add the packet of one gallon Legacy Pro Mic-X
3. Add 24 grams of photographic grade Sodium Carbonate, monohydrate
4. Mix until completely dissolved
5. Add water to bring total volume to three liters.
6. Load the replenisher into the three one litre glass bottles.
7. Starting point is 30ml per 80sq" of B&W film

That's it. This stock solution will last for years and years and years.

I have road tested this for the last ten years and it is about as cheap as you can get, since the stock solution lasts so long.

The secret to replenished Mic-X is that it is a sssslllllooooowwww acting developer. I have gone as long as thirty minutes at ambient and that's about it.

bnxvs

7-Nov-2020, 20:36

Fujifilm HR-U (green), 200 E.I., P.Gainer's Metolal 1+50, 3 min.

209280

ericantonio

8-Nov-2020, 09:33

Oh thanks bnxvs! I *just* ordered, 10 minutes ago the HR-U film in 8x10 size. I'm ready to make mistakes. Bad mistakes. But I want to do it with affordable film.

I think I can do this without scratching in trays. One at a time. I just saw some videos on how to "strip" the other side.

I'm excited. I want the high contrast for PT/PD printing.

Philippe Grunchec

8-Nov-2020, 10:13

Oh thanks bnxvs! I *just* ordered, 10 minutes ago the HR-U film in 8x10 size.

Where do you buy this film in 8x10? Here in Europe we only get the metric dimensions (18x24cm).

ericantonio

8-Nov-2020, 10:19

Where do you buy this film in 8x10? Here in Europe we only get the metric dimensions (18x24cm).

Here is the US link. Maybe it'll fit?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B5VAJEA/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_2?smid=A1GOC9HP6F4MSI&psc=1

Philippe Grunchec

8-Nov-2020, 10:45

Thx... but the seller doesn't ship to France: I should live in Paris, Texas instead of Paris, France!

philfrem14

8-Nov-2020, 11:46

Hi Philippe,
You can find here:

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/HRU-810-FUJI-GREEN-X-RAY-FILM-8-X-10-New-Box-of-100-Sheets/170788982651?hash=item27c3d10f7b:g:IzwAAOxyi3FR5s7I

It's not so expensive when you compared with panchromatic films ...

Daniel Unkefer

8-Nov-2020, 19:22

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50581176163_33bb3e5fe0_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/2k4FKsc)Wild Apple Tree Maki II HRU Handheld 1 (https://flic.kr/p/2k4FKsc) by Nokton48 (https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/), on Flickr

Handheld HRU 6.5cmx9cm XRay photography. Plaubel Makina II with Plaubel Makina Yellow Filter 1/50 at F6.0 Exposure determined by guess and experience so far. Replenished Legacy Mic-X 12 minutes at ambient. Neg is overexposed which is not right but very promising as I will decrease exposure by one and two stops next time. Also will reduce developing time to eight minutes which is more like it but this is working OK so far. Arista #2 8x10 Print Omega Dii Diffusion head laser aligned. Multigrade dev

ericantonio

10-Nov-2020, 10:52

David Schaller

10-Nov-2020, 11:25

I tried doing 2 sheets of 8x10 single sided x-ray film together in a smooth-bottomed tray-- and got scratches. I commonly do two sheets of regular 8x10 film together, without problems.

ericantonio

10-Nov-2020, 11:35

I tried doing 2 sheets of 8x10 single sided x-ray film together in a smooth-bottomed tray-- and got scratches. I commonly do two sheets of regular 8x10 film together, without problems.

Totally understandable. I figure I have plenty of times these days, I don't need to rush. It's kinda nice to sit in a darkroom for a while doing trays. I used to do it for a living! 8+ hours in a film room. It was zen and peaceful...

jmdavis

10-Nov-2020, 12:55

One sheet at a time of single sided Fuji works great emulsion up in an SP-810 tray. I would assume that it would work equally well in any smooth bottom tray.

ericantonio

11-Nov-2020, 10:19

One sheet at a time of single sided Fuji works great emulsion up in an SP-810 tray. I would assume that it would work equally well in any smooth bottom tray.

OHhh, I am eyeing one of those. This is good to know. I couldn't find a smooth bottom tray from B&H and my local pro store.

Tin Can

11-Nov-2020, 10:45

Some put a piece of glass or plastic in any tray

OHhh, I am eyeing one of those. This is good to know. I couldn't find a smooth bottom tray from B&H and my local pro store.

jmdavis

11-Nov-2020, 10:49

With the single side, I would think any tray would work for single side. The SP-810 has a textured bottom. But others have much more experience with X-ray.

ericantonio

11-Nov-2020, 11:03

Some put a piece of glass or plastic in any tray

I've heard of that. I'm actually gonna do some 4wheeling right now and taking my 4x5. Stopping at Home Depot to get 8x10 and 11x14 plexi. I figure I can use the 11x14 to tape an 8x10 xray so I can strip the one side of it.

Daniel Unkefer

11-Nov-2020, 11:04

ericantonio

11-Nov-2020, 11:05

With the single side, I would think any tray would work for single side. But others have much more experience with X-ray.

It was hard for me to find the one sided. I really don't know what I'm purchasing. No experience with the film or the brands etc so I just got what a lot of people are using and its the Fuji HR-U. Thinking of cutting the corner so I know which side I've been using, shooting, developing, drying, then stripping the one side.

Tin Can

11-Nov-2020, 11:16

I don’t believe stripping is ever better

But I also never did it

2X was good enough for real X Rays

Jim Noel

11-Nov-2020, 14:01

It was hard for me to find the one sided. I really don't know what I'm purchasing. No experience with the film or the brands etc so I just got what a lot of people are using and its the Fuji HR-U. Thinking of cutting the corner so I know which side I've been using, shooting, developing, drying, then stripping the one side.

Don't strip the film! That is just wasting 50% of the density.

Corran

11-Nov-2020, 14:05

ericantonio

11-Nov-2020, 15:43

Don't strip the film! That is just wasting 50% of the density.

Oh man! No way?! Hahah. As you can tell I'm just winging it. I'll have to try both non strip and strip

ericantonio

11-Nov-2020, 15:46

Test it!
I used to strip. It makes things more forgiving with regards to scratching.

I stopped because it was a PITA. As long as your exposure/development is done with stripping or not stripping in mind, I don't think it should make any appreciable difference.

I have not seen any explicit tests showing a reduced contrast curve for stripped vs. unstripped either.

It does look like a pain, I watched some vids. I'm guessing an ounce of prevention...(I don't know the rest of the saying cause by the time I heard the first part, I was rolling my eyes at my mom and stopped listening). I'm going to use this film for PT/PD testing. So I have lots to burn and make plenty of mistakes. I'm thinking of the 80/20 rule yah? I figure I can blow away 20% of the box for mistakes and testing.

You guys and your tips! You guys rock so much man.

ericantonio

11-Nov-2020, 17:29

Cesco flat bottomed trays are available from 5x7 to really big sizes (and specialties) through B&H and also Freestyle. Recently I bought all my 8x10 Cescos from B&H and I am thinking now about some bigger ones.

https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/13156-REG/Cescolite_CL810T_Heavy_Weight_Plastic_Developing_Tray.html

OH wow! I will need to return my Googlin PHD. I can't believe I didn't see that!!

I'm going to try something. Was reading about the "developing in a ziplock".

I just took a tray without ridges but rather has tunnels. Don't know what to call them, but they look like dug out hot dogs on the bottom of the tray. Well, I put some water down there just enough to cover it, then lined it with plastic wrap. Took a old test 8x10 sheet and sloshed it around on top of that with more liquid. I think it's gonna work.

Here is is horizontal: ^^^^^water^^^^sheet-of-plastic-wrap{~~~~~developer~~~~film~~~~developer}. The plastic wrap is to create a nice smooth bottom.

Paul Kinzer

11-Nov-2020, 18:18

Hey Folks,

I am (slowly) working to get into putting together a 14x17 dream. I just bought 200 sheets of film, to push me harder toward completion. I have lots of other bits of it: three lenses, the front standard (with a shutter), bellows, the wood and metal needed to make the camera, and an actual drawn plan for the camera. But I won't be able to make the actual camera for a bit yet, in large part because my son has taken over both my indoor (small) and garage (large) workshops.

What I do already have is a working darkroom (well, usually it's a bathroom, but I've made it easy to convert it). So I'd like to use my 5x7 kit to start experimenting with x-ray film. I have a couple of questions:

1. What is a good safelight to use with Fuji x-ray film? I read this whole thread, but that was nearly a year ago. I've tired searching, but am not succeeding in finding anything very helpful. A pointer to a thread, or actual suggestions would be great.

2. How difficult is it to cut x-ray film down? I am not seeing any 5x7 film for sale anywhere, but see good deals on other sizes. I could get 2 sheets out of one 8x10. Is this something others have done with success? Any suggestions for a specific cutter to use?

Thanks!

Barry Kirsten

11-Nov-2020, 21:48

Paul, I use these for safelights for x-ray film and paper: https://www.ebay.com/itm/24W-Deep-Red-733nm-660nm-630nm-LED-Lamp-Light-Bulb-PCB-Driver-Plant-Aquarium/392047280911?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
I use the 660nm wavelength and find them perfectly safe. You need a driver (power supply) for them available from the same seller. The driver is different depending on whether you use a dimmer or not. I found that I needed a dimmer as my darkroom is small and the output of these units is very bright. I was erring on the side of caution in case there are small amounts of shorter wavelengths that may harm film/paper. With this configuration I have had no fogging of film or paper. For cutting film and paper I use a Dahl rotary trimmer.