DIY Large darkroom paper development ideas

[Corran]

So I've been pondering large paper development mechanisms. Up to 50" x 40" but in a PVC tube.

40" width would roll up into a 13" PVC tube. I'm guessing it'll flop inwards from the weight at that size, so my thought is another 12" tube internally, with a bolt and nuts in between the tubes to hold them together on one side, opposite the center of the paper. Obviously something that won't rust, maybe some kind of plastic/teflon (https://www.extreme-bolt.com/products-ptfe-bolts.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMImY_n95Hx5AIVCFYMCh2GFA2EEAAYASAAEgJllPD_BwE) will work well, especially weight-wise. I'll also have holes drilled throughout to distribute chemicals freely since it doesn't need to be light-tight, and no end caps or anything:

http://www.esearing.com/Bryan/AV/photosharing/papertubes.jpg

Then, custom trays from Tap Plastics or similar. Length of a bit longer than 50", 15" wide to fit the tube and bolt on the top, maybe 10" deep so I can roll it in the chemicals? Should slide right in with the open ends and not float, but maybe I need larger trays to easily manipulate the tube. I will probably use more dilute chemicals for a slower development time, for ease of processing.

Total area needed for 3 trays, about 4' x 5', which will fit perfectly on my new 5' wide bench.

Thoughts? Is this a stupid idea? Any ideas for refining this? I just had the thought that after one print, the tube will be wet and difficult to insert paper into maybe. I have some PVC, I'll get it wet and see if paper slides on it. Or is there another, different material that would work better?

[Gary Beasley]

Ive seen where folks will often use a wallpaper trough, and roll the sheet into the solution and unroll and reroll several times until the step is completed then go to the next trough. Not sure how the wash was handled, but bet it was in a similar fashion.
My self, Ive processed oversized prints with a sprayer, could be done using a sheet of plexi to stick it to with a trough under the end to collect the runoff.
Another thought, design the tube to wrap the paper around the outside, stick a rod inside the tube to hang on supports so you can rotate the drum in a tray of chemicals.

[Corran]

Ah yes, I was thinking about the outside of the tube as an option as well. Trouble would be getting the paper to stay put...I'll have to think about that.

[Gary Beasley]

You would have to use clips of some kind. I used a film processor once that worked a lot like that, clipped on the lead edge and wound it around the drum. Processing was pretty easy.

[Drew Wiley]

There is all kinds of good information on the web about making and using big tube systems. Corran is going to have to be polite if he expects me to point anything out to him. But Google on its own is sufficient is one is determined.

[Corran]

Google is overrun with hits for developing film in tubes, being obviously a very common technique. The generic terms involved give me no relevant information for large 40+ inch tube development, except a generic article from Tim Layton with no useful information and a broken link to a YouTube video that's been removed. If you don't want to share resources for the greater good of the forum, that's up to you.

[LabRat]

Gary explained the usual method, but once the roll is inserted in dilute developer, you stick your gloved fingers into the curl at the edges, and run them into the core of the roll to create space for dev to evenly wet entire rolled print surface, and repeat several times...

Strongly suggest practice using RC for awhile to get the hang of it, and is much easier to wash throughly..


Steve K

[Eric Woodbury]

Here's some 'blue sky' ideas.

About 1970, I made a sort of knock-off of a color canoe. Color canoe was a stainless steel tray that was curled, so it didn't use much liquid. I made mine out of cardboard and covered it with fiber glass and resin. It allowed me to develop 16x20s. I also had a couple of trays that were just 2x4 frames that sat on the garage floor that I tucked in with vinyl plastic sheeting. These were fine for making a few prints. Not many. The canoe was pretty good.

Movie film isn't very wide, but sure is long. It is wound onto a reel loosely with a plastic apron between layers. If you can find some sort of apron material, the tube would work well.

There are long and skinny "nesting trays". This would require two people to roll the print back/forth.

There are 4x6 ft plastic trays for growing hydroponic plants. Other sizes.

See if you have a plastic vacuum forming company in town.

Make trays out of plywood and have them sprayed with truck bed liner.

[Corran]

Practicing w/ RC is a good idea. I'll probably need to build one "full-size" tray for washing outside like I used to, in the yard. RC certainly is easier in that way. Goal will definitely be FB prints though. My goal is to not have massive traditional trays/sinks though as I don't really have the room unless I build out a whole other area for print development.

I have a 6x12 image from last winter that I think would look fabulous at 48 x 24, so that is my first goal I think, once I get things built. First step was getting the enlarger setup built so on to the next.

[Gary Beasley]

Let me know if you need help.

[Corran]

Thanks Gary. Will be putting more effort into this in the coming months, so we'll see what I can come up with.

There's an irrigation and landscape supply store down near where my dad lives, so I think I'm going to go look at some of the pipe they have sometime next month. Nothing large enough at Home Depot, and I think there are some smaller gauge pipe that will work better for this weight-wise. I don't need Schedule 40.

[esearing]

You could use your counter space divided with temporary 2x4 grid covered with plastic for an initial test (search for Clyde Butcher large printing). Also at home depot they sell washing machine overflow pans that are 32" square-ish so a 24x48" print would have to be seesawed in and out of solution. Hydroponic trays are available in 48". Inflatable swimming pool for washing. If still considering the tube method - there are 12" cardboard tubes in the cement section at HomeDepot, they could be coated with epoxy fiber glass resin.

[Chester McCheeserton]

https://www.instagram.com/p/9Y-xj8in14/

https://www.instagram.com/p/3e3eYGCn5L/

[Tin Can]

Considering your central bench with open rafters it would be easy to try a few methods with RC.

Tape/fasten the paper to 2" PVC tubes.

Make a smooth double pulley system system hung from the ceiling or lower for stability, attached to PVC ends. Dip the paper in narrow but long trays that can be moved into position easily. The paper stays in one position. You pull the paper down on both sides.

I do this by hand, processing 14X36" X-Ray using film clips, my hands barely get wet. I do it in 2" of PQ, double sided film, no scratches if the film never touches the tray bottom.

[Corran]

Interesting idea Randy! I will think about that.

[PRJ]

I've thought a lot about this over the years but I haven't done anything yet. I think the idea of an enlarged color canoe is probably the best way to go about it. You can use far less chemistry that way and can actually see the print developing. You can also use it for different size prints without worrying about the issues that a small print in a large drum would cause. You would also have far less mess from chemical spillage. It would be easier too than loading a print into a wet drum.

If you decide to go with a drum, you might want to use a screen material to give the fiber paper structure. I suppose there is an outside chance that the screen may cause uneven development so you would have to test for that.

[Peter De Smidt]

You can also do one large tray. Pour in developer. Use a mop or....? to go over the surface of the print. Pour out. pour next solution into tray.....

[LabRat]

But if you are thinking of making something that requires back rolling the paper onto something, note this...

The secret to not getting little crimps, creases, clamshell marks, and dents on the paper (very easy to do), is to always allow the paper to unroll in it's most natural flow during handling and processing steps... Think of the paper like it's a big roll of seamless, that if you don't handle it just so, it will crinkle or crease, so your mission will be to imagine every step of the process and design a workflow for it...

It's possible, but you need to design your system carefully, or its looking for a large ink jet printer... In fact, if you only need to print now and then, an ink jet might be fine at that very large size... Because there is a big learning curve to produce perfect, consistent wet prints...

Steve K

[Corran]

Personally I am not interested in inkjet printing one iota. I don't have a problem with occasional lab prints on traditional light-sensitive papers using modern methods, but ink to me is a non-starter. I am also looking to make larger prints consistently and specifically to showcase my work at art festivals and other events - not just a one-off decorative or throw-away print for around the house.